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Parts for your 2013 Holden Captiva 5-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
2013 Holden Captiva 5 Engine Mount
Engine mounts are absolutely used on the 2013 Holden Captiva 5. Technical references that document these components include GM Global Service Information (SI) for Captiva CG Series II (2011–2015), the Holden Captiva Workshop/Service Manual sections titled Engine Mount Replacement and Transmission Mount Replacement, and the GM Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC) entries for CG Captiva/Opel Antara. These sources specify multiple mounts on the Captiva 5: a right-hand hydraulic engine mount, a left-hand transmission mount, and front/rear torque reaction mounts (often called torque struts or dog-bones).
On the 2013 Captiva 5, the engine mount set has one job: keep the engine and transmission securely located while soaking up vibration and controlling twist under load. The hydraulic main mount damps out the buzz at idle, while the torque mounts rein in the engine’s fore–aft rock on take-off or when lifting off the throttle. The result is a smoother cabin, less stress on driveline parts, and tidier gear changes.
While there’s no fixed replacement interval, mounts are wear items. They can split, collapse, or leak fluid (from the hydraulic type). A quick visual and feel check at each service pays off, especially if the vehicle tows or sees rough roads.
- Telltales include a thump on gear changes, more vibration at idle in Drive, clunks on take-off, excessive engine movement, and visible cracks or fluid around the mount.
- A perished torque mount often shows as a sharp knock on acceleration or when shifting from Reverse to Drive.
When replacement is needed, the correct procedure is laid out in the Holden/GM SI. The engine or transmission must be safely supported before removing mount fasteners. Fastener torque and tightening sequence matter to avoid preloading the rubber, some variants specify replacing certain bolts if they’re torque-to-yield. After fitting, recheck clearances and road-test for vibration and knock. A workshop with a hoist and engine support bar will generally do this faster and safer than a driveway job.
Good habits help mounts last: avoid harsh launches, keep fluid leaks (engine oil, coolant, power steering) off the rubber, and inspect the subframe bushes and lower torque mount together—if one is tired, the others work harder.
Popular questions about 2013 Holden Captiva 5 engine mounts
How many engine mounts does a 2013 Captiva 5 have?
Most Captiva 5 models run a main right-hand hydraulic engine mount, a left-hand transmission mount, and at least one torque reaction mount (often both a front and a rear dog-bone). The exact count and design can vary slightly by engine and transmission, but three to four mounts is typical.
What are the signs an engine mount needs replacing?
Owners commonly notice extra vibration at idle, a clunk on take-off or when shifting between Reverse and Drive, and visible rubber cracking or a sagging mount. Hydraulic mounts may seep fluid. Increased engine movement when blipping the throttle with the bonnet up is another giveaway.
Can they keep driving with a failed mount?
Short trips might be possible, but it’s not wise. A failed mount can stress driveshafts, exhaust flex joints, and other mounts, and the car may feel rough or knock under load. Prompt replacement avoids cascading damage and restores comfort.