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Parts for your 2013 Ford Transit-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
2013 Ford Transit engine mounts — what they do and when to replace them
Engine mounts are absolutely fitted and relevant on the 2013 Ford Transit. Ford’s own service literature (Ford ETIS/TIS Workshop Manual, Section 303-01 for the 2013 Transit/Mk7) details right- and left-hand engine mount insulators plus a torque-reaction mount, and the Ford parts catalogues (Microcat/Global, 2013 Transit) list multiple mount variants by engine and VIN. Independent references like the Haynes Ford Transit Diesel 2000–2013 manual also cover mount inspection and replacement procedures. So yes — this Transit runs several mounts to hold the engine steady and keep the cabin civil.
On the 2013 Transit, the engine mounts do two big jobs: they secure the engine to the subframe and soak up vibration so the driver isn’t copping a droney, buzzy ride. They also control how much the engine can twist when taking off with a load, protecting driveline bits like shafts, exhaust flex joints and hoses. Many variants use a hydraulic (fluid-filled) mount on one side to better tame NVH, with a solid rubber mount and a separate torque mount working as a team.
As part of regular servicing, a quick mount check is worth doing — especially on higher‑kilometre vans, ones that live heavy or spend heaps of time idling. Look for collapsed rubber, visible cracks, delamination, or any oily weep from a hydraulic mount. Excessive engine rock when blipping the throttle, a thump on take‑off, or a harsh vibration at idle are classic clues it’s time.
- Inspect mounts each service or every 20,000–30,000 km, check for splits, sag or fluid leaks.
- If one mount has failed, assess the torque mount and the opposite side — replacements often make sense as a set on high‑km vehicles.
- Use proper engine support (cradle or support bar). Never lift by the sump.
- Follow Ford torque specs and replace any torque‑to‑yield (stretch) bolts as specified.
- After fitting, recheck exhaust flex, hoses and wiring clearances, and road test for NVH.
A healthy set of mounts keeps the Transit feeling tight, reduces wear on surrounding gear and makes long days behind the wheel far more bearable. If the van’s starting to feel rough or clunky, getting the mounts checked will save grief down the track.
Popular questions
How long do engine mounts last on a 2013 Ford Transit?
In typical Aussie and Kiwi conditions, mounts often run well past 120,000 km, but life varies with load, heat and idle time. Heavy courier work or lots of stop‑start can age them faster. Regular inspections during services will catch issues early.
Can you keep driving with a worn engine mount?
It’ll usually still drive, but you’ll get more vibration and may cop clunks on take‑off. Leaving it too long can stress exhaust flex joints, hoses and shafts. It’s safer and cheaper to sort it sooner.
Are the 2013 Transit’s engine mounts hydraulic or solid?
Both types were used, depending on engine and build. Many run a hydraulic mount on one side for better vibration control, paired with a solid rubber mount and a torque‑reaction mount. Check by VIN or visual inspection to match the correct parts.