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Parts for your 2013 Ford Ranger-Wheel hubs
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2013 Ford Ranger wheel hubs — what they do and when to replace them
Wheel hubs are absolutely fitted to the 2013 Ford Ranger. Technical sources including the Ford Workshop Manual for the PX Ranger (2011–2015) — see front suspension and front drive/axle hub sections — and Ford/Motorcraft parts catalogues specify a bolt-on, unitised front hub-and-bearing assembly with integrated ABS encoder. The rear runs hub and bearing support at the axle flange. So wheel-hubs are relevant components on every 2013 Ranger variant (2WD and 4x4).
On this model, the hub is the solid mounting point that the wheel bolts to, while the sealed bearing inside lets the wheel spin smoothly. Up front, the Ranger uses a cartridge-style hub and bearing that bolts to the steering knuckle, there’s no manual locking hub — 4x4 engagement happens via the transfer case. Many hubs also carry the ABS tone ring, so a crook hub can throw an ABS light as well as make noise.
They’re “sealed for life”, which means no greasing ports and no periodic bearing adjustment. Instead, condition checks are part of normal servicing: listen for a humming or growling that rises with speed, feel for roughness when spinning the wheel free, and check for play by rocking the tyre at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions. Heat at the hub after a short drive, ABS faults, or uneven tyre wear can also point to a worn hub assembly.
Replacement is straightforward for a pro and doable for confident DIYers with the right tools. The unit unbolts from the knuckle, on 4x4s the CV shaft passes through the hub. Always confirm torque specs and one-time-use fasteners in the Ford workshop information for the exact variant.
- Use quality hub assemblies suited to the Ranger’s ABS configuration.
- Clean mating faces on the knuckle and hub, rust or burrs will cause misalignment and brake pulsation.
- Route and clip the ABS lead correctly to avoid chafing.
- Torque the axle/hub nuts and wheel nuts to spec — over-tightening can kill a new bearing.
- After off-road work or water crossings, add hub checks to the next service. Big tyres, lifts and towing can shorten bearing life.
There’s no fixed replacement interval, many last well past 150,000 km, but outback corrugations, saltwater, or big loads can bring that forward. If there’s noise, play or ABS faults, replacing the hub assembly is the fix — they’re not rebuildable.
Popular questions about 2013 Ford Ranger wheel-hubs
Do 2013 Rangers have manual locking hubs?
No. The PX-series Ranger uses a sealed, bolt-on front hub and bearing with permanently splined front CVs. 4x4 selection is handled in the transfer case, there are no dash- or hub-mounted manual free-wheel locks from factory.
What are the signs a Ranger hub is failing?
Common clues include a droning or growling that gets louder with speed, play at the wheel, ABS warning lights, brake shudder from a misaligned hub, and a hub that runs noticeably hotter than the opposite side. If those show up, plan on a hub replacement.
Can the factory hubs be serviced, or only replaced?
They’re sealed units, so there’s no repacking or adjustment. The maintenance approach is inspect, diagnose and replace as needed. When fitting a new hub, verify ABS compatibility and torque values, and it’s wise to check rotor runout and wheel balance at the same time.