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Parts for your 2013 Audi Q5-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob 300A (Contacts Rated 300A @ 12V) - 61045BL
2013 Audi Q5 engine mount — what it does and when to replace it
Engine mounts are absolutely fitted to the 2013 Audi Q5 (type 8R). Audi’s official workshop information (ErWin/ELSA, Rep. Gr. 10 – Engine mounting) details removal and installation procedures for the left and right mounts, and the Audi ETKA parts catalogue for the 8R Q5 lists hydraulic engine mounts and the pendulum/torque support. Major OE suppliers (e.g., Lemförder, Corteco) also catalogue hydraulic mounts for 2.0 TFSI, 3.0 TDI and other 2013 Q5 variants. That means the engine mount is not only relevant — it’s essential hardware on this model.
On a 2013 Q5, the engine mounts secure the engine to the subframe while isolating cabin occupants from vibration and harshness. Most variants use fluid-filled (hydraulic) mounts that absorb idle buzz and smooth out driveline shunt. Some engines also use vacuum-actuated or “active” mounts to vary stiffness under different loads, striking a neat balance between comfort around town and control when the driver gives it a bootful.
Mounts are a wear item, even though they’re not serviced on a fixed schedule. Age, heat and torque loads slowly break down the rubber and internal fluid chambers. Once they soften, leak or collapse, vibration sneaks into the cabin, gear changes can feel clunky, and the engine may shift more than it should under the bonnet.
- Common signs they’re tired: shakier idle, a thud on take-off or when shifting from R to D, more vibration through the steering wheel, or visible fluid seepage from a mount.
- Quick checks: look for sagging or cracked rubber, leaked hydraulic fluid, and excessive engine rock when blipping the throttle in Neutral (with the bonnet up, safely).
Replacement is condition-based. Many Q5s get 120,000–200,000 kilometres before mounts show their age, but high-heat, towing or rough roads can shorten that. Best practice is to replace mounts in pairs (left and right) to keep NVH balanced. The job needs the engine safely supported, subframe and bracket bolts loosened, and new single-use (stretch) bolts installed and torqued to factory specs. It’s not a driveway spanner session for most owners — follow the Audi workshop procedure and, if equipped, reconnect any vacuum or electrical lines for active mounts. After replacement, a short road test will confirm idle smoothness and that drivetrain shunt has settled.
As part of regular servicing, ask for a visual inspection of the mounts and adjacent hardware (transmission mount and pendulum support). Catching a soft or leaking mount early protects exhaust flex joints, hoses and driveshaft couplings from extra stress.
How long do engine mounts last on a 2013 Audi Q5?
There’s no set interval from Audi, but many Q5s see 120,000–200,000 kilometres before noticeable wear. Heat, stop–start traffic, towing and rough roads can speed things up. Regular inspections during servicing help pick the right time to replace.
What are the tell-tale symptoms of a worn Q5 engine mount?
Expect extra vibration at idle, a clunk when selecting Drive or Reverse, more drivetrain shudder on take-off, and sometimes a tremor through the steering wheel. A leaking mount (oily residue on the body of the mount) or visibly collapsed rubber is a clear sign it’s due.
Should engine mounts be replaced in pairs on a Q5?
It’s strongly recommended. Replacing both sides keeps engine height and stiffness even, which restores proper NVH and reduces stress on the remaining older mount. If the car has an active/vacuum mount system, make sure all lines and connectors are refitted correctly.