Parts for your 2012 Subaru Outback-Wheel studs nuts

2012 Subaru Outback wheel studs & nuts

Based on technical references including the 2012 Subaru Outback Owner’s Manual and Subaru’s Factory Service Manual for the BR-series (2010–2014), this model is built with press-in wheel studs on each hub, secured by matching wheel nuts. It does not use wheel bolts. The system is the classic Subaru arrangement: M12 x 1.25 studs with conical-seat nuts, tightened to the factory torque.

On the 2012 Outback, wheel studs and nuts provide the clamping force that keeps the wheel firmly centred on the hub while handling braking, cornering, and rough Kiwi or Aussie roads. The studs are splined and pressed into the hub flange, the nuts thread onto them to deliver even, reliable clamp load. It’s simple, strong, and makes wheel changes a breeze.

As part of routine servicing or any tyre rotation, it’s worth giving the studs and nuts a quick once-over. Look for damaged or stretched threads, rust scale, rounding on the nut seats, or a stud that spins in the hub (that one’s a dead giveaway it needs replacing). If a nut was cross-threaded or hammered on with a rattle gun, bin it and fit a quality replacement. Running aftermarket wheels? Make sure the nut seat matches the wheel seat profile and that the thread is the correct M12 x 1.25.

• Tighten wheel nuts to 120 N·m using a torque wrench and a star pattern.
• Do not lubricate threads or seats, Subaru specifies clean and dry for accurate torque.
• Avoid using impact guns for final torque, use hand torque for consistency.
• Re-check torque after 50–100 km once the wheels have settled, especially after tyre or brake work.

Replacement of a damaged stud is a straightforward workshop job: remove the wheel, caliper and rotor, press or drive the old stud out, pull the new stud in square using spacers and a sacrificial nut (or a press), then refit. It’s smart practice to replace the corresponding nut and any others that look tired. If corrosion is heavy or space is tight, the hub may need to come off the car for pressing.

Look after the studs and nuts and they’ll look after the Outback—no drama on the school run, the job site, or that long weekend down the coast.

Popular questions

What’s the correct wheel-nut torque for a 2012 Subaru Outback?

120 N·m per Subaru’s specifications. Tighten in a star pattern, then re-check after 50–100 km to make sure everything’s settled nicely. Avoid lubricants on threads or seats to keep the torque accurate.

How can they tell if a stud or nut needs replacing?

Look for burred or flattened threads, a nut that goes on gritty or crooked, visible cracking or rust pitting on the stud shank, or a stud that spins in the hub. If a nut was cross-threaded or over-tightened with an impact gun, replace it straight away.

Can just one broken stud be replaced?

Yes—studs can be replaced individually. A typical workshop will take around 0.5–1.5 hours depending on the corner and how stubborn things are. Replace the matching nut as well, and avoid driving with a missing or broken stud.