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Parts for your 2012 Subaru Forester-Wheel studs nuts

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MaxiTrac Extendable Wheel Wrench
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MaxiTrac Extendable Wheel Wrench

$35.70
$51
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MaxiTrac Folding Wheel Brace
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MaxiTrac Folding Wheel Brace

$32.20
$46
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Wildcat Wheel Lock Nut - STE15

Wildcat Wheel Lock Nut - STE15

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$54
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Nice Products Wheel Nut - NN421

Nice Products Wheel Nut - NN421

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$5
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Wildcat Wheel Nut - 94A154

Wildcat Wheel Nut - 94A154

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$43
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Wildcat Wheel Nut - 94A1254

Wildcat Wheel Nut - 94A1254

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$43
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Nice Products Wheel Stud - NS2710

Nice Products Wheel Stud - NS2710

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$40
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Wildcat Wheel Lock Nut - STE12

Wildcat Wheel Lock Nut - STE12

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$54
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Wildcat Wheel Lock Nut - STE125

Wildcat Wheel Lock Nut - STE125

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$54
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Showing 1 - 39 of 229 products

2012 Subaru Forester wheelstudsnuts — what they do and how to look after them

Yes, the 2012 Subaru Forester uses wheelstudsnuts (studs pressed into the hub with separate wheel nuts). Technical references include the 2012 Forester Owner’s Manual, which specifies tightening “wheel nuts” to 120 N·m (about 88.5 ft‑lb), and the Subaru Service Manual (STIS) that details press-in wheel studs (commonly M12 × 1.25) on a 5-stud hub. Those sources make it clear the Forester doesn’t use lug bolts.

On this model, wheelstudsnuts clamp the wheel to the hub, holding correct alignment and ensuring the brake rotor and wheel stay centred under load. The tapered (conical) nuts bite into the wheel’s seat to create consistent clamping force, which is crucial for safe handling, braking, and even tyre wear. Most 2012 Foresters use a 5×100 PCD, M12 × 1.25 studs, and 60° tapered nuts—always check against the vehicle’s VIN or wheel type (steel vs alloy).

  • Tightening torque: 120 N·m on clean, dry threads
  • Pattern: criss-cross (star) when tightening and loosening
  • Recheck torque after 50–100 km following tyre or wheel work
  • Do not lubricate studs/nuts, Subaru documentation expects dry torque

As part of regular servicing—especially after rotations, tyre changes, off‑road trips, or beach runs—inspect the studs and nuts. Clean off rust and debris, ensure seats are clean, and replace any nut with a rounded seat or damaged thread. If a nut feels gritty or binds, stop and inspect, forcing it can stretch or strip a stud.

  • Replace a stud if threads are flattened, cross‑threaded, or if the stud spins in the hub
  • Replace nuts with distorted, cracked, or rusty seats, never mix seat styles
  • If multiple studs are damaged, replace them as a set on that hub

Stud replacement is a press-in job, depending on access, the hub may need removal. A workshop with a press will handle it quickly and protect the wheel bearing. When refitting wheels, they should use a torque wrench—rattle guns can over‑tighten and stretch studs. For those towing, heading off‑road, or clocking big kilometres around Australia and New Zealand, periodic torque checks are cheap insurance against wheel vibration and rotor warping.

Pro tip: if switching to aftermarket wheels, confirm the nut seat type and length to suit the rim. Incorrect seats can loosen, even at the right torque.

Popular question: What’s the correct wheel nut torque for a 2012 Subaru Forester?

The specified torque is 120 N·m (about 88.5 ft‑lb) on clean, dry threads. Tighten in a star pattern and recheck after 50–100 km following any tyre or wheel service.

Popular question: How do you know if wheelstudsnuts need replacing?

Look for rounded or cracked nut seats, rusty or cross‑threaded threads, a stud that spins in the hub, or a nut that won’t torque smoothly. Any of these call for replacement before the next drive.

Popular question: Can anti‑seize be used on Forester studs?

Subaru guidance is to torque dry. Lubricants alter friction and can cause over‑tightening at the same torque value. Clean threads and correct dry torque are the go-to for Aussie and Kiwi conditions.