Parts for your 2012 Subaru Forester-Wheel studs nuts

2012 Subaru Forester wheel studs and nuts

Yes, the 2012 Subaru Forester is fitted with wheel studs and matching wheel nuts. This isn’t a lug-bolt setup. Subaru’s own technical sources confirm it: the 2012 Forester Owner’s Manual (wheel and tyre section), the Subaru Factory Service Manual for the SH-series Forester, and Subaru’s parts catalogues all show five pressed-in wheel studs on each hub with tapered-seat wheel nuts. Those sources also specify a tightening torque of 120 N·m (about 88.5 ft‑lb) applied to clean, dry threads.

On this Forester, the job of the wheel studs and nuts is pretty simple: clamp the wheel evenly to the hub so the wheel stays centred and secure while copping Aussie and Kiwi roads without a fuss. The studs are M12 × 1.25 thread, and the OEM nuts use a 60‑degree tapered (cone) seat to suit factory wheels. Done right, they keep brake rotors running true and prevent vibration, fretting, and loose wheels.

Good servicing habits make a big difference. During every tyre rotation or wheel-off job (roughly every 10,000 km), a tech should:

• Brush the stud threads and nut seats clean, inspect for burrs, corrosion, or stretched threads.
• Mount the wheel clean and dry, and torque the nuts to 120 N·m in a star pattern with a torque wrench—not a rattle gun for final tighten.
• Re-torque after 50–100 km of driving if the wheels were removed or replaced.
• Keep oils and anti-seize off the stud threads and nut seats, Subaru specifies dry torque. A light smear of anti-seize on the hub spigot only (not on studs) can help prevent wheel sticking.

Replace studs or nuts if any of the following show up:

• Cross-threaded, galled, rusty, or visibly stretched threads, spinning studs in the hub, cracked or deformed nut seats, or cap-type nuts that have swollen or split.
• History of over-tightening with an impact gun, that can weaken studs and distort brake rotors.

Replacement is straightforward but precise: studs are press-in types. Depending on clearance, the brake caliper and rotor may need to come off, sometimes the hub has to be removed to press in a new stud without stressing the bearing. Always match seat type to the wheel, and aim for proper thread engagement—the nut should engage at least the stud’s diameter in thread length (roughly 8–10 full turns on M12 × 1.25). Under‑torque risks wheel wobble, over‑torque risks broken studs and warped rotors. Do it by the book and the Forester will roll quietly and safely for many kilometres.

Popular questions about 2012 Subaru Forester wheel studs and nuts

What’s the correct torque for the wheel nuts?
Subaru specifies 120 N·m on clean, dry threads for the 2012 Forester. Tighten in a star pattern and re‑check after 50–100 km whenever wheels have been off. Avoid lubricating the studs or nut seats, as that alters clamping force.

How do they know a stud or nut needs replacing?
Look for cross‑threading, flattened or cracked nut seats, heavy rust pitting, or a stud that turns in the hub. If a wheel’s been over‑tightened with a rattle gun, consider replacing the affected studs and nuts to be safe.

What thread and seat type does it use?
The 2012 Forester uses M12 × 1.25 studs with 60‑degree tapered (cone) seat nuts. If fitting aftermarket wheels, confirm they use the same seat profile and ensure proper thread engagement—typically 8–10 full turns.