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Parts for your 2012 Subaru Forester-Batteries
LED Autolamps 90 Series Blue Emergency LED Strobe/Warning Light 12V/24V Surface Mount - 90BM
LED Autolamps 90 Series Red Emergency LED Strobe/Warning Light 12V/24V Surface Mount - 90RM
Explore 4WD & Adventure
LED Autolamps 12/24V LED Green Emergency Lamp Flash Patterns With Sunc WireStrobe High Power - 120033GM
LEDAUT 12V LED Interior Light 31PCS SMD LEDs Equivalent To 15 Watt Globe Blister Pack - 1031
LED Autolamps 12/24V Stop/Tail/Indicator/Reverse/Reflector Mini Jumbo Twin Blister - 420ARRWM2
LED Autolamps 12V LED Boat Trailer Lamps Stop/Tail/Indicator with Licence Plate Lamp Light Left & Right Side, with 8m cable, Twin Blister - 209GARLP2/8M
LED Autolamps 12/24V Maxilamp Stop/Tail/Indicator/Reflector Single Lamp - MAXILAMP1XRE
LED Autolamps Multi Volt Stop/Tail/Indicator With 18 Square LEDs Twin Blister - 135ARM/2
LED Autolamps 12/24V LED Stop/Tail/Indicator Light 284x100x27mm Blister Pack - 282ARRM
LED Autolamps LED Autolamps Indicator LED Light Round Amber Lens w/Rubber Grommet and Plug 12/24v - 110AMG
LED Autolamps 12V LED Stop/Tail/Indicator Lamp With Reflex Reflector 2 Pack - 151BAR2
2012 Subaru Forester — Batteries
Yes, a 12‑volt starting battery is absolutely fitted to the 2012 Subaru Forester. This is confirmed by the 2012 Subaru Forester Owner’s Manual (electrical system section) and the Subaru Forester Service Manual (Body Electrical/Charging), which specify a 12 V maintenance‑free lead‑acid battery for engine cranking and system power. These manuals also outline charging voltages and diagnostic checks consistent with SAE and JIS battery standards used across AU/NZ.
For this Forester, the battery’s job is straightforward but crucial: deliver a sharp burst of current to crank the EJ engine, stabilise system voltage for the ECU and sensors, and provide power to lighting and accessories with the engine off. If the battery under the bonnet is weak, the car can crank slowly, throw odd electrical gremlins, or trigger warning lights during start-up.
For servicing, it’s smart to plan on 3–5 years of battery life depending on climate and usage. Many AU/NZ 2012 petrol models use a conventional maintenance‑free lead‑acid unit, turbo variants often benefit from a higher cold cranking amps (CCA) rating. The exact case size, terminal layout and CCA should be matched to the label on the existing unit or confirmed in the manual to ensure the posts and hold‑down line up correctly. AGM is generally not required on this model unless specified by a replacement strategy or heavy accessory loads.
- Routine checks: Look for corrosion on terminals, ensure the hold‑down is snug, and confirm the battery isn’t swollen or leaking.
- Voltage and charge: A healthy, rested battery sits around 12.6 V. With the engine running, the alternator typically charges between about 13.8–14.6 V, as outlined in Subaru service data.
- Testing: A conductance or load test during regular servicing is a quick way to spot declining capacity before it leaves anyone stranded.
When replacing, switch everything off, open the bonnet, and work safely. Disconnect negative first, then positive, refit positive first, then negative. Lightly coat clean terminals with dielectric grease, and make sure the clamp torque is firm without overtightening. A memory saver can help keep radio presets, some Foresters may need a quick window auto‑up reinitialisation after a swap. If cranking is still lazy with a new battery, have the charging system tested per the Subaru Service Manual procedure. Dispose of the old unit at a proper recycling point.
What battery type suits a 2012 Subaru Forester?
It uses a 12 V maintenance‑free lead‑acid starting battery. Match the physical size, terminal layout (the Forester commonly uses a left‑positive layout) and CCA to the original label or the owner’s manual. Turbo models and colder regions often benefit from a higher CCA. AGM isn’t usually required on 2012 models unless there’s a specific need.
How long should the battery last?
Typically 3–5 years in AU/NZ conditions. Replace sooner if there’s slow cranking, repeated jump‑starts, or test results show low capacity. If resting voltage often drops below ~12.3 V or a conductance test reports under ~70% health, it’s time to organise a replacement.
Any tips for a DIY battery change?
Turn everything off, wear eye protection, and disconnect negative first. Use the correct spanner size, avoid shorting tools across posts, and secure the hold‑down so the battery can’t move. After installation, confirm charging voltage around 13.8–14.6 V at idle. Recycle the old battery responsibly.