Parts for your 2012 Honda Cr-v-Wheel studs nuts

2012 Honda CR‑V wheel studs and nuts

Yes, the 2012 Honda CR‑V is built with wheel studs and wheel nuts (often called lug nuts). Honda’s own technical literature confirms this: the 2012 CR‑V Owner’s Manual shows a five‑stud hub with wheel nuts in the “Changing a Flat Tyre” section, and the Honda CR‑V Service Manual details procedures for wheel stud replacement and wheel nut torque. Typical Honda specs for this model call for five M12 x 1.5 studs per wheel with tapered‑seat nuts, tightened to around 108 N·m (80 lbf·ft). Those details are consistent across Honda’s parts catalogues and workshop procedures for the 2012–2014 CR‑V range.

On a 2012 CR‑V, the wheel studs and nuts do the simple but critical job of clamping the wheel securely to the hub. Good clamping force means the wheel doesn’t fret on the hub face, the brake rotor stays true, and handling remains predictable. If the nuts are under‑torqued, the wheel can loosen, if they’re over‑torqued, studs can stretch or snap.

As part of regular servicing—or any time the wheels are removed—it’s smart to give the studs and nuts a quick once‑over. Look for damaged or flattened nut seats, rusty or stretched studs, and any cross‑threading. Replace any suspect parts immediately, they’re inexpensive compared with a wheel or hub. Stick with quality, OEM‑equivalent hardware (metric class 10.9 studs, correct 60‑degree tapered nuts) so the clamping load and seat geometry are right for Honda wheels.

• Torque: tighten wheel nuts evenly in a star pattern to about 108 N·m. Re‑check after 50–100 km, especially after tyre rotation or brake work.
• Clean and dry: keep threads clean and install nuts dry—no oil or anti‑seize—unless a specific service procedure states otherwise. Lubed threads change torque and can over‑stress studs.
• Impact tools: if using a rattle gun, finish with a torque wrench. Never rely on the gun’s setting alone.
• Stud replacement: press the old stud out and the new one in squarely. Don’t draw a new stud in solely with a nut and washer, as it can damage the bearing or under‑seat the stud.
• Wheels: match the nut seat to the wheel. Honda factory alloys/steels use a tapered seat, ball‑seat nuts from some aftermarket brands are not compatible.

With these basics sorted, the CR‑V’s wheels stay tight, tyres wear evenly, and there’s less chance of shudder or brake rotor issues down the line. Easy win.

Popular questions about 2012 Honda CR‑V wheel studs and nuts

What’s the correct wheel nut torque for a 2012 CR‑V?

Honda specifies about 108 N·m (80 lbf·ft) on the 2012 CR‑V. Tighten in a criss‑cross (star) pattern and re‑check after 50–100 km of driving. This keeps clamping even and helps prevent rotor distortion and wheel vibration.

What thread size and seat type does it use?

The factory studs are M12 x 1.5. The original wheel nuts use a 60‑degree tapered seat and a 19 mm hex. If fitting aftermarket wheels, make sure the nut seat style matches the wheel—mixing ball‑seat and taper‑seat hardware is a no‑go.

Can a single damaged stud or nut be replaced, or should they be done in sets?

It’s fine to replace a single damaged stud or nut, provided the rest are in good nick. If several nuts show chewed seats or multiple studs are stretched or rusty, replacing the full set on that hub is a safer bet and helps maintain even clamping.