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Parts for your 2012 Holden Captiva 5-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
2012 Holden Captiva 5 engine-mount — what it does and when to replace it
Technical sources confirm the 2012 Holden Captiva 5 is fitted with engine mounts. The Holden Captiva CG Series II Workshop Manual (Engine/Transmission Mounting section) and GM’s Global Electronic Parts Catalogue list multiple mounts for this model, including a right-hand engine mount insulator, a left-hand transaxle mount, and lower torque/roll-stopper mounts. So yes—an engine-mount is very much relevant to the 2012 Captiva 5.
On this Captiva 5, the engine mounts hold the engine in position, soak up vibration, and control how the engine twists when you accelerate or change gears. They’re a mix of rubber (often hydraulic) and metal, tuned to keep the cabin smooth and quiet while protecting driveline parts. When a mount wears, cracks, or leaks its fluid, drivers usually notice extra vibration at idle, a thud on take-off, or a shudder when shifting. Left too long, a failed mount can stress exhaust joints, CV shafts, and even other mounts.
While mounts aren’t a scheduled replacement item, they’re absolutely worth a check during routine servicing—especially as kilometres climb, after rough-road use, or if there’s been an oil leak that’s soaked the rubber. A quick visual for collapsed rubber or fluid seepage, plus a controlled power-brake test to watch engine movement, tells a good story.
- Common signs of a tired mount:
- Vibration through the steering wheel or seats at idle
- Clunk or knock on throttle tip-in or gear change
- Excessive engine rock in the bay
- Visible cracking, delamination, or fluid leak from a hydraulic mount
Replacement is straight-forward for a trained tech: support the engine safely, swap one mount at a time, and tighten fasteners with the vehicle at normal ride height so the rubber isn’t pre-loaded. It’s smart to replace any single-use (stretch) bolts, follow torque specs from the Holden workshop manual, and recheck all adjacent hoses and wiring once the engine settles on its new mounts. If one mount has failed, assess the others—fatigued pairs (like a top mount and lower torque mount) often wear together.
Genuine or quality aftermarket mounts both work, the key is fitment accuracy and NVH performance. Many Captiva 5 owners see well over 100,000 km from factory mounts, but harsh roads, towing, or lots of stop-start driving can bring forward the timeline. If the car’s starting to feel buzzy or clunky, a fresh set of mounts can make it feel new again.
FAQs
How many engine mounts does a 2012 Holden Captiva 5 have?
Typically four: a right-hand engine mount, a left-hand transaxle mount, and two lower torque/roll-stopper mounts. Some parts catalogues group the torque mounts together, but the setup serves those four roles.
Is it safe to drive with a worn or broken engine mount?
It’ll usually still drive, but it’s not a great idea. You’ll get more vibration and risk damage to the exhaust, driveshafts, and other mounts. It’s best to book it in promptly if you notice knocks or excess movement.
What symptoms point to a bad Captiva 5 engine mount?
Extra vibration at idle, a thud on take-off or when shifting, visible cracking or fluid leakage on the mount, and noticeable engine rock when the throttle is blipped in neutral.