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Parts for your 2011 Toyota Wish-Wheel studs nuts

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MaxiTrac Extendable Wheel Wrench
30%OFF

MaxiTrac Extendable Wheel Wrench

$35.70
$51
Fitment Notes:
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MaxiTrac Folding Wheel Brace
30%OFF

MaxiTrac Folding Wheel Brace

$32.20
$46
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Wildcat Wheel Lock Nut - STE15

Wildcat Wheel Lock Nut - STE15

Confirm Vehicle
$54
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Wildcat Wheel Nut - 94A154

Wildcat Wheel Nut - 94A154

Confirm Vehicle
$43
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Repco Wheel Nut Set 1/2in UNF 5pc - RTNS2

Repco Wheel Nut Set 1/2in UNF 5pc - RTNS2

$15
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Wildcat Wheel Lock Nut - MAG15

Wildcat Wheel Lock Nut - MAG15

Confirm Vehicle
$54
Fitment Notes:
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Repco Wheel Nut & Stud Set 7/16in UNF 5pc - RTNSS1

Repco Wheel Nut & Stud Set 7/16in UNF 5pc - RTNSS1

$33
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WHEEL NUT INDICATOR YELLOW 21MM - CP21Y

WHEEL NUT INDICATOR YELLOW 21MM - CP21Y

$1.04
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Repco Wheel Nut Set 7/16in UNF 5pc - RTNS1

Repco Wheel Nut Set 7/16in UNF 5pc - RTNS1

$21
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Trojan Wheel Nuts 1/2 inch 13/16 Hex - 5 Pack - TPT1002

Trojan Wheel Nuts 1/2 inch 13/16 Hex - 5 Pack - TPT1002

$21
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WHEEL NUT INDICATOR 33MM DEEP - DTLRY33MM

WHEEL NUT INDICATOR 33MM DEEP - DTLRY33MM

$4.15
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WHEEL NUT INDICATOR 21MM DEEP - DTLRY21MM

WHEEL NUT INDICATOR 21MM DEEP - DTLRY21MM

$4.15
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WHEEL NUT INDICATOR YELLOW 27MM - CP27Y

WHEEL NUT INDICATOR YELLOW 27MM - CP27Y

$1.04
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WHEEL NUT INDICATOR 27MM DEEP - DTLRY27MM

WHEEL NUT INDICATOR 27MM DEEP - DTLRY27MM

$4.15
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WHEEL NUT INDICATOR YELLOW 32MM - CP32Y

WHEEL NUT INDICATOR YELLOW 32MM - CP32Y

$1.04
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WHEEL NUT INDICATOR 32MM DEEP - DTLRY32MM

WHEEL NUT INDICATOR 32MM DEEP - DTLRY32MM

$4.15
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WHEEL NUT INDICATOR YELLOW 33MM - CP33Y

WHEEL NUT INDICATOR YELLOW 33MM - CP33Y

$1.04
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Repco Trailer Wheel Hub Kit Falcon Style - RTHUB01

Repco Trailer Wheel Hub Kit Falcon Style - RTHUB01

$99
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Trojan 13Inch Wheel - 8 Spoke - T535006

Trojan 13Inch Wheel - 8 Spoke - T535006

$197
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Repco Trailer Wheel Hub Kit HQ Holden Style - RTHUB02

Repco Trailer Wheel Hub Kit HQ Holden Style - RTHUB02

$99
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Repco Trailer Wheel Hub Kit HT Holden Style - RTHUB03

Repco Trailer Wheel Hub Kit HT Holden Style - RTHUB03

$99
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T&E Tools 4 Way Foldable Wheel Brace 20in - 6033

T&E Tools 4 Way Foldable Wheel Brace 20in - 6033

$81
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ARK Jockey Wheel U-Bolt Set - 100mm x 50mm - 2 Pack - UB4B
ARK

ARK Jockey Wheel U-Bolt Set - 100mm x 50mm - 2 Pack - UB4B

$31
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Repco U Bolt M12 x 100mm x 100mm Square - RTUB2

Repco U Bolt M12 x 100mm x 100mm Square - RTUB2

$34
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Checkpoint Applicator and Removal Tool - CPA

Checkpoint Applicator and Removal Tool - CPA

$99.66
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Showing 1 - 39 of 39 products

2011 Toyota Wish wheel studs and nuts

Based on Toyota’s technical literature for the ZGE2# series (2009–2017) and the Toyota electronic parts catalogue, the 2011 Toyota Wish uses wheel studs with matching lug nuts to secure each wheel to the hub. It does not use wheel bolts. That means “wheelstudsnuts” are absolutely relevant to this model.

On the 2011 Toyota Wish, the wheel studs and nuts do the critical job of clamping the wheel firmly to the hub and brake rotor hat. The conical seat of each nut centres the wheel, while correct torque provides the clamping force that keeps everything tight through cornering, braking and the rough-and-tumble of Kiwi and Aussie roads. Like most Toyotas, the Wish runs M12 x 1.5 studs with standard 60° taper nuts and a 21 mm hex.

As part of routine servicing, it’s smart to give the studs and nuts a quick once-over whenever tyres are rotated, brakes are serviced, or a puncture’s been fixed. Look for damaged or flattened threads, corrosion, stretched studs (threads look thinned or uneven), or nuts with chewed-up hexes or cracked seats. If a stud spins in the hub, is bent, or the threads are gone, replace it—don’t try to rescue it.

When refitting wheels, start nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading, then tighten in a star pattern. Toyota’s typical torque spec for M12 studs is 103 Nm, that suits the Wish well. Use a torque wrench, not the rattle gun for final tightening, and re-check torque after 50–100 km. Avoid lubricants or anti-seize on the threads or seats, as this can over-torque and stretch studs.

Replacing a dodgy stud is straightforward but methodical: remove the caliper and rotor to access the hub face, press the old stud out, and press the new one in squarely. Drawing a new stud in with washers and a sacrificial nut can work in a pinch, but a press gives a cleaner result and protects the hub bearing. If the nuts are rusty, rounded, or the cone seats are scored, replace the set—mixing old and new can lead to uneven clamping.

Good hardware equals peace of mind. Quality studs and nuts, tightened correctly, help prevent brake judder, wheel vibration, and the very real risk of a loose wheel. Simple checks at each service will keep the Wish rolling safely and smoothly.

  • Torque wheel nuts to 103 Nm, in a criss-cross pattern.
  • No oil or anti-seize on threads or seats.
  • Hand-start every nut, re-torque after 50–100 km.
  • Replace any stud or nut with damaged threads, corrosion, or distortion.

What size are the wheel nuts on a 2011 Toyota Wish?

The 2011 Wish typically uses M12 x 1.5 thread wheel nuts with a 60° taper and a 21 mm hex. That’s the common Toyota spec across many models of the era. If fitting aftermarket wheels, make sure the nut seat style matches the wheel (usually tapered/conical) and that the thread pitch is correct for the studs.

For peace of mind, replace any mismatched or unknown nuts with a quality set that suits the wheel seat and the Wish’s studs. Mixing seat types can lead to poor clamping and vibration.

What torque should the wheel nuts be tightened to on a 2011 Toyota Wish?

A torque of 103 Nm is appropriate for the Wish’s M12 x 1.5 wheel studs. Tighten in a star pattern to seat the wheel evenly, then re-check after 50–100 km of driving. Use a torque wrench for final tightening and avoid lubricants on threads or cone seats, as this alters clamping force and can stretch studs.

If a nut feels gritty or binds while hand-threading, stop and inspect the threads—forcing it can damage the stud and hub.

How do you know when wheel studs or nuts need replacing?

Tell-tales include damaged or flattened threads, a nut that won’t spin on by hand, a stud that spins in the hub, visible bending, or corrosion pitting. Driving symptoms can be wheel vibration, clicking noises under load, or nuts that repeatedly work loose even when torqued correctly.

Any of these are a cue to replace the affected hardware. It’s often wise to replace nuts as a set, and to press in new studs rather than trying to “pull” badly seated ones home.

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