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Parts for your 2011 Toyota Land cruiser-Temperature sensors

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NOCO Genius 6/12V 5A Battery Charger - GENIUS5AU

NOCO Genius 6/12V 5A Battery Charger - GENIUS5AU

$150
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Permatex Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant 85g - PX81158

Permatex Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant 85g - PX81158

$20
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JB Weld High Temp Red Silicone 85g - 31314

JB Weld High Temp Red Silicone 85g - 31314

$25
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CRC Grey RTV Gasket Sensor Safe 85g - 8637
CRC

CRC Grey RTV Gasket Sensor Safe 85g - 8637

$17
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Explore 4WD & Adventure

NOCO Genius 6v/12v 2A Battery Charger - GENIUS2AU

NOCO Genius 6v/12v 2A Battery Charger - GENIUS2AU

$110
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Goss Coolant Temperature Sensor - CS844

Goss Coolant Temperature Sensor - CS844

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$116
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Goss Air Temperature Sensor - AT337

Goss Air Temperature Sensor - AT337

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$201
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Goss Coolant Temperature Sensor - CS855

Goss Coolant Temperature Sensor - CS855

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$107
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OEX  Temperature Sensor - CCS52

OEX Temperature Sensor - CCS52

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$84
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CRC Grey RTV Gasket Sensor Safe 300g - 5079
CRC

CRC Grey RTV Gasket Sensor Safe 300g - 5079

$42
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VDO Temperature Sensor 1/8 - 27NPT Stud Terminals - 320.093
VDO

VDO Temperature Sensor 1/8 - 27NPT Stud Terminals - 320.093

$75
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Goss Oil Level Sensor - LS115

Goss Oil Level Sensor - LS115

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$1,410
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CRC RTV Silicone Select-A-Bead Black 184g - 14072
CRC

CRC RTV Silicone Select-A-Bead Black 184g - 14072

$61
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JB Weld Ultimate Black Silicone 280ml cartridge - 32929

JB Weld Ultimate Black Silicone 280ml cartridge - 32929

$51
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VDO Temperature Switch 1/4 - NPTF - 320.714
VDO

VDO Temperature Switch 1/4 - NPTF - 320.714

$644
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JB Weld Ultimate Grey Silicone 85g - 32327

JB Weld Ultimate Grey Silicone 85g - 32327

$26
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MaxiTrac 12V Tyre Pressure Monitoring System - MT-TPMS

MaxiTrac 12V Tyre Pressure Monitoring System - MT-TPMS

$144
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Freetrack 4G GPS Vehicle Tracker - AVSFT802
Avs

Freetrack 4G GPS Vehicle Tracker - AVSFT802

$309
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NOCO Genius 1A Battery Charger - GENIUS1AU

NOCO Genius 1A Battery Charger - GENIUS1AU

$211
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Nakamichi Reversing Car Camera - NC-6L

Nakamichi Reversing Car Camera - NC-6L

$74
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JB Weld Ultimate Grey Silicone 280ml cartridge - 32927

JB Weld Ultimate Grey Silicone 280ml cartridge - 32927

$51
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CRC RTV Silicone Select-A-Bead Grey 184g - 14060
CRC

CRC RTV Silicone Select-A-Bead Grey 184g - 14060

$61
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Showing 1 - 39 of 45 products

Temperature sensors on the 2011 Toyota Land Cruiser (200 Series)

Based on Toyota’s factory repair manual and the Electrical Wiring Diagram (EWD) for the 2011 Land Cruiser 200 Series, temperature sensors are absolutely fitted and essential to this model. The vehicle uses multiple sensors, including the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor, automatic transmission fluid temperature sensor, ambient air temperature sensor, and, on 1VD-FTV diesel variants, a fuel temperature sensor. These sources outline how the sensors feed data to the engine control module (ECM), transmission control, and climate systems to manage fuelling, timing, cooling fans, glow/after-glow (diesel), and air-conditioning performance.

On a 2011 LandCruiser, temperature sensors do plenty of heavy lifting. The ECT sensor tells the ECM how hot the engine is so it can adjust fuelling and ignition timing, switch the radiator fans, and trigger limp modes if things get toasty. The IAT keeps tabs on incoming air temp to fine-tune mixture and spark. Transmission fluid temp protects the auto by managing shift strategy and torque converter lock-up under load or while towing. The ambient sensor informs the A/C and the dash display. Diesel variants add fuel temperature input to refine injection and, in some cases, support emissions strategies.

As part of regular servicing, it’s smart to:

  • Scan live data and compare ECT/IAT readings to the actual ambient temperature (cold engine should read close to outside air).
  • Inspect connectors and looms around the thermostat housing and intake—heat and vibration can harden insulation or loosen plugs.
  • Test sensor resistance against temperature specs from the workshop manual if readings look off.
  • Use OEM-quality replacements, cheap thermistors can drift and throw fuelling out.

Replacing an ECT sensor is straightforward with basic tools: let the engine cool, relieve system pressure, drain a little coolant, swap the sensor and sealing washer/O-ring, then refill and bleed the cooling system. Don’t overtighten—use a torque wrench to the specification in the manual. After refitting, clear any DTCs and verify temps on a scan tool while checking for leaks under the bonnet.

Signs a temperature sensor is on the fritz include hard cold starts, rough idle, high fuel use, radiator fans stuck on, a dodgy dash gauge, or fault codes like P0115–P0119. Most sensors are “replace on failure” items—there’s no fixed interval—though checking them when you service coolant or intake components is good practice, especially on vehicles that tow, see dusty tracks, or clock big kilometres across Australia and New Zealand.

Where is the engine coolant temperature sensor on a 2011 Land Cruiser?

It’s typically threaded into the water outlet/thermostat housing near the upper radiator hose. On the 1VD‑FTV diesel, you’ll usually find it at the front of the engine on the coolant crossover, on petrol V8s, it’s on the water bridge/thermostat area.

Access is generally from the top with the engine cover off. A small loss of coolant is normal—have a tray and fresh coolant ready, and bleed the system after refit.

Can a faulty temperature sensor cause poor fuel economy or hard starting?

Yes. If the ECT or IAT reads colder than reality, the ECM enriches the mix, leading to higher fuel use and sooty exhaust. If it reads hotter, it can lean the mix, causing rough running or hesitation, especially on cold mornings.

It can also trigger over-active fans and limp strategies. Always confirm with live-data before replacing parts.

Do new temperature sensors need programming on a 2011 Land Cruiser?

No coding is required. They’re plug-and-play thermistors. Fit the correct part number, clear any stored fault codes, and verify readings with a scan tool.

For coolant sensors, refit with the proper seal, torque correctly, top up coolant, and bleed the system to avoid air pockets and false readings.