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Parts for your 2011 Toyota Land cruiser-Brake booster
DBA Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster Landcruiser 80 Series (4 Bolt Brake Master Cylinder) - DBAMV1004
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DBA Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster Landcruiser 80 Series (2 Bolt Brake Master Cylinder) - DBAMV1003
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DBA Dual Diaphragm Upgrade Brake Booster (Suit Without ABS) - DBAMV1001
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1046
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1029
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DBA Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster Landcruiser 70 Series 8/1999 - 8/12 - DBAMV1002
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Explore 4WD & Adventure
DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1033
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1041
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1080
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Bendix Ultimate 4WD Brake Booster (Suit Non-ABS) - U4WD-BBLC7NOABS
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1034
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1022
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1062
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1021
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1013
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1037
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1045
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1016
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1017
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1071
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1064
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1042
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1065
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1048
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1028
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1051
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1057
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1063
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1031
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1027
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1052
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1049
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1018
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DBA Street Series Standard OE Replacement Brake Booster - DBAMV1067
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2011 Toyota LandCruiser brake booster: purpose, servicing, and replacement
Technical sources confirm the 2011 Toyota LandCruiser (200 Series, petrol and diesel variants) is fitted with a vacuum brake booster. Toyota’s 200 Series Repair Manual and New Car Features publications detail a vacuum-assisted braking system integrated with ABS and stability control, and the Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue lists a dedicated brake booster assembly for 2011 URJ200/VDJ200 models. So a brake booster is absolutely relevant and used on this vehicle.
The brake booster on a 2011 LandCruiser multiplies pedal force using engine vacuum (petrol) or a vacuum pump (diesel). That assist turns modest pedal pressure into strong hydraulic pressure at the callipers, delivering confident stops on-road and controlled braking off-road or when towing. Without the booster working properly, the pedal feels hard, stopping distances grow, and the whole driving experience becomes more tiring—especially around town.
For ongoing servicing, the booster deserves a quick check whenever the brakes are inspected. The classic functional check is simple: with the engine off, the pedal is pumped several times to exhaust stored vacuum, then held, when the engine starts, a healthy booster will let the pedal sink slightly as vacuum assist returns. Any constant hissing near the pedal, a rock-hard pedal, or a rough idle that changes when the brakes are pressed points to vacuum leaks or a failing check valve.
Workshops should also eyeball the vacuum hose and one‑way check valve, and look for any sign of brake fluid at the rear of the master cylinder. Fluid inside the booster suggests a master cylinder rear-seal issue, which can damage the booster diaphragm if ignored. On high‑kilometre LandCruisers, rubber grommets and hoses can harden with heat and age, so replacing these small parts can restore performance and prevent bigger headaches.
- Replacement pointers: the master cylinder is unbolted and moved forward carefully, the vacuum line and check valve are removed, and the booster is released from the firewall under the dash. A new gasket is recommended, and the pedal free play/clevis length must be set to spec to avoid dragging brakes or long travel.
- After refit: bleed the brakes, verify pedal feel, clear any stored ABS/VSC codes if needed, and road test on both urban and open‑road speeds. Quality OEM‑equivalent parts and correct adjustment make a big difference to pedal feel and safety.
Popular questions about the 2011 Toyota LandCruiser brake booster
How can someone tell if the brake booster is failing on a 2011 LandCruiser?
Common signs include a hard brake pedal, longer stopping distances, and a steady hiss from around the pedal area. The engine may idle roughly or stall when the brakes are applied if there’s a significant vacuum leak.
A quick driveway test helps: with the engine off, pump the pedal a few times, hold pressure, then start the engine. If the pedal doesn’t drop slightly as the engine starts, booster assist may be lacking.
Is it safe to drive a 200 Series with a bad brake booster?
It’s not recommended. The vehicle will rely on unassisted hydraulic braking, so pedal effort skyrockets and stopping distances increase—especially risky in emergency stops, on wet roads, or when towing.
If a hard pedal or vacuum hiss appears, it’s wise to arrange inspection and repair before continuing regular driving.
What does replacement usually involve and how long does it take?
Replacement typically involves moving the master cylinder forward, disconnecting the vacuum line and check valve, undoing the booster from the firewall inside the cabin, and setting the push‑rod/clevis length correctly during installation.
Workshop time varies with equipment and model, but many jobs fall in the 2–4 hour range including bleeding and a proper road test.