Parts for your 2011 Toyota Blade-Temperature sensors

2011 Toyota Blade temperature sensors — what they do and how to look after them

Temperature sensors are absolutely fitted to the 2011 Toyota Blade. Technical sources including the Toyota Repair Manual for the E150-series Blade/Auris (covering 2AZ‑FE 2.4L and 2GR‑FE 3.5L), the Toyota Electrical Wiring Diagram (EWD), and the Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC) show multiple temperature sensors on this model: an engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor, an intake air temperature (IAT) sensor integrated into the MAF, an ambient air temperature sensor for the climate control/cluster, an evaporator temperature sensor for the A/C, and a transmission or CVT fluid temperature sensor within the valve body (U660E 6‑speed auto on Blade Master, Super CVT‑i on 2AZ‑FE).

These sensors are the eyes and ears of the engine and climate systems. The ECT sensor lets the ECM set fuelling and ignition timing, manage cold starts, and command the radiator fans. The IAT helps trim mixtures for Aussie and Kiwi weather swings. Ambient and evaporator sensors keep the A/C behaving, while the trans/CVT fluid temp sensor protects the driveline and shapes shift strategy.

There’s no fixed replacement interval, but they should be checked during routine servicing. A scan tool can confirm live data: look for realistic cold-start readings (roughly ambient), smooth warm-up to operating temp, and plausible intake air temps. If data is erratic or codes like P0115–P0119 (ECT) or P0110–P0113 (IAT) pop up, it’s time to test wiring and the sensor.

• Common symptoms of a crook sensor: hard cold starts, high idle, rich running, poor fuel economy, thermo fans stuck on, or a dead A/C.
• Simple checks: inspect connectors for corrosion, cracked plugs, or oil/coolant wicking into the loom, confirm good grounds.

Replacing the ECT sensor is straightforward: work on a cold engine, drain enough coolant to drop the level below the sensor, swap the sensor and seal, and refill with Toyota Super Long Life Coolant (pink). Bleed air properly and verify fan operation. Don’t wrap the threads with PTFE tape unless the manual specifies, the sensor typically earths through its body.

The IAT on this Blade is inside the MAF on the airbox inlet, so cleaning the MAF with proper MAF cleaner (never brake or carb spray) often restores sane readings. Avoid oiled filters that can foul the element. The ambient sensor sits ahead of the radiator/behind the bumper—make sure it’s not bent, full of bugs, or unplugged. Transmission/CVT temp sensors are internal, diagnosis or replacement is best left to a workshop with Techstream and the right service data.

Popular questions about 2011 Toyota Blade temperature sensors

Where is the engine coolant temperature sensor located?
The ECT sensor is threaded into a coolant passage near the thermostat housing/water outlet. On the 2AZ‑FE it’s at the water outlet on the cylinder head, on the 2GR‑FE it’s near the thermostat on the right‑hand bank. Access is under the bonnet from the top—watch for hot coolant and use the repair manual for the exact spot.

Is the intake air temperature sensor part of the MAF on this model?
Yes. On the 2011 Blade the IAT is integrated into the mass air flow sensor on the airbox inlet. If the IAT circuit fails or readings are off, clean the MAF first. If it’s still out of spec, the MAF assembly is replaced as a unit.

Do temperature sensors need regular replacement?
Not on a schedule. They’re replaced on condition—when live data is implausible, a fault code sets, or testing shows an open/shorted thermistor. During services, it’s smart to review scan data, check connectors, and keep the cooling system and air intake clean so sensors can do their job.