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Parts for your 2011 Toyota Blade-Ball joints

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Repco Ball Joint Seperator - RST157

Repco Ball Joint Seperator - RST157

$61
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Repco Ball Joint Separator - RST54

Repco Ball Joint Separator - RST54

$32
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Toledo Ball Joint Separator 200mm - 311271

Toledo Ball Joint Separator 200mm - 311271

$25
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Toledo Ball Joint Separator Fork 24mm - 311273

Toledo Ball Joint Separator Fork 24mm - 311273

$25
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Mechpro Hydraulic Shop Press 12 Tonne - MPBSP2

Mechpro Hydraulic Shop Press 12 Tonne - MPBSP2

$462
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Mechpro Hydraulic Shop Press 6 Tonne - MPBSP1

Mechpro Hydraulic Shop Press 6 Tonne - MPBSP1

$297
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Explore 4WD & Adventure

Repco Telescopic Inspection Mirror - RST207

Repco Telescopic Inspection Mirror - RST207

$20
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Toledo Inspection Mirror with Led Light - 321013

Toledo Inspection Mirror with Led Light - 321013

$90
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T&E Tools Oval Telescopic Inspection Mirror

T&E Tools Oval Telescopic Inspection Mirror

$39
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Nolathane Sway Bar Link Set - 42767

Nolathane Sway Bar Link Set - 42767

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$303
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Showing 1 - 11 of 11 products

2011 Toyota Blade ball joints: what they do and when to replace them

Technical sources for the E150-platform Toyota Blade (Toyota New Car Features for Auris/Blade E150, Toyota Repair Manual – Front Suspension, and Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue for model codes AZE154H/GRE156H) specify a MacPherson strut front suspension with a lower arm and a separate lower ball joint. That means ball joints are definitely fitted to the 2011 Toyota Blade and are a relevant service item.

On the 2011 Toyota Blade, the front lower ball joints act like a tough little swivel between the steering knuckle and the lower control arm. They let the front wheels move up and down over bumps while also turning left and right, keeping the tyre contact patch steady and the steering feel tidy. They’re sealed-for-life components, so there’s no greasing nipple to worry about, but they do rely on intact rubber boots to keep grit and water out.

For Aussie and Kiwi roads, regular inspection is the go. Most owners will never think about ball joints until there’s a clunk, vague steering, or odd tyre wear. A good workshop will check play with the wheel lifted, look for split boots, and listen for knocks on take-off, braking, and over speed humps.

  • Common signs they’re tired:
    • Clunking or knocking over bumps or when turning at low speed
    • Steering wander or tramlining, especially on coarse chip
    • Uneven or rapid inner/outer tyre wear
    • Split or leaking dust boots

There’s no fixed kilometre schedule, condition and environment rule. Many last well past 150,000 km, but cars seeing rough roads, kerb strikes, or lowered suspension may need them earlier. If a boot is torn, contamination can chew the joint quickly—best to replace promptly.

When it’s time, the Blade’s front lower ball joint is a bolt-on component, so it can be replaced without buying the whole control arm. That said, if the arm bushes are also worn, it’s often smart (and cost‑effective) to fit a complete arm and sort alignment in one go. Always use quality parts and have a wheel alignment done after the job, it’ll protect those tyres and keep the steering centred.

  1. Service tips for owners:
    • Ask for a ball joint and boot check at every service (around 10,000–15,000 km)
    • After any pothole hit or kerb kiss, get the front end inspected
    • If buying tyres, get the suspension checked first to avoid scrubbing out a new set

Popular question: Does the 2011 Toyota Blade have rear ball joints as well?

Front lower ball joints, yes. For the Blade’s typical FWD setup, the rear uses a torsion beam with bushes rather than conventional rear ball joints. Some E150 variants in other markets used different rear layouts, but the Blade itself isn’t known for rear lower ball joints. A shop can confirm your exact rear suspension before ordering parts.

Popular question: How often should Blade ball joints be replaced?

There’s no time-based interval. They’re replaced on condition—when there’s play, noise, or a split boot. Have them inspected at regular services and after any suspension knock. Many last beyond 150,000 km on normal roads, but rough use can shorten that.

Popular question: Can the ball joint be replaced on its own, or does the whole control arm need doing?

On the Blade, the front lower ball joint is a separate bolt-on unit, so it can be changed on its own. If the control arm bushes are also worn or cracking, replacing the complete arm at the same time can be the better value fix, followed by a wheel alignment.

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