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Parts for your 2011 Honda Stream-Camshaft sensor

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2011 Honda Stream camshaft sensor – what it does and how to look after it

Based on Honda technical references for the RN6–RN9 Stream with R18A/R20A i‑VTEC engines, the 2011 Honda Stream is fitted with a camshaft position (CMP) sensor. Honda service information details the CMP on the cylinder head feeding phase data to the PCM, Honda’s EPC lists CMP part numbers such as 37510‑RNA‑A01 and 37510‑R40‑A01 for these engines, and standard OBD‑II diagnostics for this model include CMP‑related DTCs (P0340, P0341). So yes, it uses a camshaft sensor.

On the 2011 Honda Stream, the camshaft sensor keeps the engine’s timing sharp as a tack. It tells the ECU exactly where the cam is, so fuel injection, ignition, and i‑VTEC/VTC phasing all line up. That delivers easy starts, smooth idle, decent punch, and tidy fuel economy. If the sensor goes off song, the ECU can’t sync cam and crank properly, which can mean long cranks, rough running, or a check‑engine light.

There’s no fixed replacement interval for the CMP on this model, but a quick check at service time is smart. Under the bonnet, the sensor sits on the cylinder head at the timing‑chain end. Look for oil weeping at the O‑ring, a loose connector, brittle wiring, or damage from heat. If it’s grimy, wipe it down gently, don’t soak the sensor in solvent. A dab of dielectric grease on the connector pins helps keep moisture at bay.

Common signs it’s time to test or replace include:

  • Hard starting, extended cranking, or stalling
  • Check‑engine light with codes like P0340/P0341
  • Sluggish performance or odd shifting in auto variants
  • Intermittent misfire and higher fuel use

Replacement is a simple driveway job for many DIYers. Let the engine cool, disconnect the battery negative, unplug the sensor, remove the single retaining bolt, and twist the sensor out—expect a small oil dribble. Fit a fresh OEM‑spec O‑ring lightly oiled, seat the new sensor, torque the bolt to the factory spec, reconnect, clear any codes, and take it for a road test. An idle relearn may help after battery disconnect. If faults persist, check the loom and verify cam/crank correlation with a scan tool before chasing your tail.

Using quality oil and sticking to proper service intervals helps the i‑VTEC and timing gear stay clean, which in turn keeps the CMP readings nice and stable. When buying a new sensor, go OEM or a proven aftermarket brand—cheapies can cause more drama than they fix.

Where is the camshaft sensor on a 2011 Honda Stream?

It’s mounted on the cylinder head at the timing‑chain end, held by a single bolt and plugged into the engine harness. Pop off the plastic engine cover and you’ll spot it near the top corner of the head. Don’t confuse it with the crank sensor down by the crank pulley.

What are the symptoms of a failing camshaft sensor on this model?

Expect harder starting, rough idle, flat spots, and a check‑engine light—often with P0340 or P0341. A scan tool showing unstable cam/crank sync is a giveaway. Wiggle‑testing the connector and inspecting for oil in the plug can quickly narrow things down.

Is it safe to keep driving with a dodgy camshaft sensor?

The car may run in a limited fallback mode, with reduced power or occasional stalling. That’s not ideal around town and risky on the open road. Plan a prompt repair. Parts typically run around AUD/NZD $80–$250, with 0.5–1.0 hour labour for a straightforward swap.

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