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Parts for your 2011 Holden Captiva 5-Headlight bulbs
Repco by Century Car Battery Superior Performance 330CCA - NS40Z MF
Repco by Century Car Battery Superior Performance 510CCA - 58 MF
Repco by Century Car Battery Superior Performance 500CCA - DIN53L MF
Repco by Century Car Battery Ultimate Performance 420CCA - DIN44LX MF
Repco by Century Car Battery Superior Performance 330CCA - NS40ZLS MF
Repco by Century Car Battery Ultimate Performance 500CCA - DIN53LX MF
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Repco by Century Car Battery Ultimate Performance 360CCA - NS40ZX MF
Repco by Century Car Battery Ultimate Performance 360CCA - NS40ZLSX MF
Repco by Century Car Battery Ultimate Performance 780CCA - DIN85LX MF
Repco by Century Car Battery Ultimate Performance 750CCA - N65DX MF
Repco by Century Car Battery Ultimate Performance 710CCA - DIN65RHX MF
Repco by Century Car Battery Ultimate Performance 550CCA - 75SX MF
Repco by Century Car Battery Superior Performance 330CCA - NS40ZS MF
Repco by Century Car Battery Ultimate Performance 530CCA - 68EB MF
Repco by Century Car Battery Ultimate Performance 500CCA - DIN53RX MF
Repco by Century Car Battery Reliable Performance 290CCA - NS40ZL MFR
Repco by Century Car Battery Ultimate Performance 360CCA - NS40ZSX MF
Projecta Intelli-charge Remote Control to suit IC15 IC25 IC35 IC50 New Version - ICREMOTE-1
2011 Holden Captiva 5 Headlight Bulbs
Headlight bulbs are absolutely relevant to the 2011 Holden Captiva 5. Technical references such as the Holden Captiva CG Series Owner’s Handbook and GM Service Information confirm this model uses replaceable halogen headlight bulbs (not sealed-beam units) for both low and high beam. These service documents, together with GM Global EPC listings, identify the lamp system as a conventional bulb-and-housing setup commonly supplied in H7 for low beam and H1 or HB3 for high beam depending on build and trim. Always check the cap on the back of the headlamp or the handbook for the exact fit.
On the Captiva 5, the headlight bulbs do the heavy lifting for safe night driving and being seen in poor weather. Halogen bulbs gradually dim with age, so swapping them in pairs keeps the light output even across the front. Sticking to ADR-compliant 12V 55W bulbs avoids heat damage to the housing or wiring, and keeps the beam pattern crisp.
Replacement is straightforward from under the bonnet. Pop off the rear dust cover, unplug the connector, release the spring clip, and swap the bulb without touching the glass. If the glass does get a fingerprint, wipe with alcohol before refitting. Refit the clip, connector, and cap, then test both beams. It’s a good shout to check headlight aim after any bulb change—ADR 13/00 alignment specs apply, and proper aim avoids dazzling oncoming traffic.
- Replace in pairs every few years or when light output drops.
- Keep lenses clean, polish hazed plastic to restore brightness.
- Inspect for moisture inside the housing—replace seals or caps if needed.
- Avoid higher-wattage bulbs, heat can cook the reflector and wiring.
- Considering LEDs? Only use ADR-compliant retrofits designed for the Captiva 5’s reflector/projector, and be aware some cars may need CANBUS-friendly globes.
If a new bulb doesn’t light, check the relevant fuse and the headlamp connector for heat damage or loose pins. Persistent issues can point to a relay, switch, or earth fault that’s best left to a sparky or a qualified tech.
Popular questions about 2011 Holden Captiva 5 headlight bulbs
What headlight bulb types fit a 2011 Holden Captiva 5?
Most Aussie and NZ-delivered Captiva 5 variants use H7 for low beam and H1 or HB3 for high beam. Build dates and trims can vary, so always confirm on the lamp cap or in the Owner’s Handbook. Stick to 12V 55W halogen bulbs for correct beam focus and to protect the housing.
Can you replace Captiva 5 headlight bulbs at home, and how long does it take?
Yes—most owners can do it with no special tools in about 10–20 minutes per side. Access is from behind the headlamp: remove the dust cover, unplug, release the spring, swap the bulb, and refit. If space is tight or the clip is fiddly, a workshop can sort it quickly.
The light’s still out after fitting a new bulb—what should be checked next?
Start with the fuse for that side, then inspect the connector for corrosion or heat damage. Check the earth point and wiring where it passes the battery and radiator support. If all looks fine, a relay or switch fault may be the culprit and worth a diagnostic.