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Parts for your 2010 Toyota Wish-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
2010 Toyota Wish engine mount — what it does and when to replace it
Based on Toyota’s technical literature — including the Toyota Wish ZGE20/ZGE25 Series Repair Manual (Engine/Mechanical section), Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue for ZGE20G, and Toyota New Car Features for the 2ZR/3ZR engines — the 2010 Toyota Wish absolutely uses engine mounts. It’s a transverse front‑wheel‑drive layout with a set of mounting insulators and torque mounts that secure the engine and transaxle to the subframe.
On a 2010 Toyota Wish, the engine mount setup keeps the 1.8L or 2.0L engine and CVT nicely planted under the bonnet while soaking up vibration. Typically there are four mounts doing the heavy lifting: a right‑hand (engine side) hydraulic mount, a left‑hand (transaxle) mount, plus front and rear torque mounts that control fore‑aft movement under acceleration and braking. The whole idea is simple — cut cabin buzz, reduce harshness, and keep driveline angles sweet so the CVT, driveshafts, and exhaust aren’t copping extra stress.
There’s no fixed replacement interval in Toyota’s service data, so mounts are replaced on condition. Over time the rubber hardens or cracks, and hydraulic mounts can seep fluid. If the Wish starts idling rough in Drive, shudders on take‑off, thumps on gear engagement, or you can see the engine lurch when blipping the throttle, the mounts are worth a look. Oil‑soaked or collapsed rubbers are a dead giveaway.
When organising replacement, a competent tech will support the engine with a jack or engine support bar, swap one mount at a time, and torque everything to factory spec with the vehicle at normal ride height. It pays to re‑check fasteners after a short run. If the car’s racked up big kilometres — say 150,000 km plus — doing the set can restore that smooth, factory feel. Mixing old and new can mask issues and bring you back sooner than you’d like.
DIY‑inclined owners can tackle the torque mounts with basic spanners and stands, but the side hydraulic mounts are tighter for access and best left to a workshop. Use quality parts (genuine or reputable aftermarket), and don’t ignore persistent vibration — it can snowball into split exhaust flexes, stressed CV joints, and cracked brackets. For everyday servicing, a quick visual under‑tray check for torn rubbers or leaks, along with a cabin feel test at idle in Drive and Reverse, is a smart add‑on.
- Common signs to act on: vibration at idle, clunks on acceleration/braking, visible cracks or fluid leaks, excessive engine movement.
- Good practice: replace on condition, support the engine properly, and torque to Toyota specifications.
Popular questions
How many engine mounts does a 2010 Toyota Wish have?
Most 2010 Wish models run four mounts: right‑hand engine mount, left‑hand transaxle mount, plus front and rear torque mounts. Exact part numbers depend on engine (2ZR‑FAE or 3ZR‑FAE) and trim.
What are the symptoms of a failing engine mount on a Wish?
Noticeable cabin vibration at idle in Drive, a shudder on take‑off, clunks on gear engagement, or visible cracks/leaks on the mount housings are the big clues. Excessive engine rock when snapping the throttle is another sign.
Is it safe to drive with a broken engine mount?
It’ll usually still move, but it’s not wise. Continued driving can stress the CVT mountings, driveshafts and exhaust. Short trips to a workshop are generally fine, book repair as soon as possible.