Parts for your 2010 Toyota Vitz|yaris-Steering bushes

2010 Toyota Vitz/Yaris Steering Bushes

Steering bushes are used on the 2010 Toyota Vitz/Yaris (XP90 series, e.g., NCP90/NCP91). Toyota’s Repair Manual for the XP90 “Steering – Steering Gear & Linkage” shows the rack-and-pinion mounted to the front crossmember with rubber mounting cushions/bushes, and the Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue for NCP90/NCP91 lists serviceable “cushion/steering rack” components. AU/NZ aftermarket catalogues also offer replacement rack-mount bush kits for this model, confirming they’re a relevant, replaceable item.

On the 2010 Vitz/Yaris, the steering bushes secure the rack-and-pinion to the subframe while soaking up vibration and road shock. They help keep the rack located so the wheel alignment and on-centre feel stay consistent, and they cut down on kickback through the column. Even though this Yaris uses column-assist electric power steering (so there’s no hydraulic pump or idler gear), it still relies on these rubber bushes to keep the steering precise and quiet.

When the bushes age, harden, or oil-soak, the rack can shift a touch under load. That’s when drivers notice a dull knock over sharp bumps, a vague or wandering feel on the motorway, or a small clunk when flicking the wheel left-right in the driveway. Tyre wear can creep in too if the rack moves around under braking or cornering.

Inspection is straightforward during a service: with the wheels on the ground, an experienced tech can rock the steering and watch the rack mounting points for excess movement, then lever the rack gently to check bush compliance. In Aussie and Kiwi conditions, it’s common to see wear from 120,000–200,000 km, sooner if the car’s seen rough roads or a power-steering fluid leak from an older vehicle (not typical on this EPS Yaris) has softened the rubber.

Replacement can often be done with the rack in the car by loosening mounts and supporting the rack, though some workshops prefer to drop it for better access. Fresh OEM-style rubber bushes keep NVH civil for daily use, while quality polyurethane options sharpen steering feel at the cost of a tad more vibration. Always torque the rack bolts to spec and book a wheel alignment afterwards to make sure toe is bang on. If the steering column was disturbed, a zero-point calibration may be required, though bush-only work usually doesn’t need EPS recalibration.

Good practice while you’re there: check control arm and sway bar bushes, tie rod ends, and front strut tops. Keeping the whole front end tight lets the Yaris steer crisp and true without fuss.

• Tell-tales of worn bushes: clunks over bumps, wander on-centre, and rack movement at the mounts.
• Best results: quality bushes, correct torque, and an alignment straight after.

Popular questions about 2010 Toyota Vitz/Yaris steering bushes

How can someone tell if the steering bushes on a 2010 Yaris are worn?
They’ll often hear or feel a soft knock over sharp bumps or when turning the wheel quickly at parking speeds. On a hoist, a tech can rock the steering and spot the rack shifting at its mounts. Uneven or feathered front tyre wear and a slightly nervous on-centre feel are other common flags.

Do the bushes need pressing, and can they be changed without removing the rack?
Many kits are a two-piece design that fit without a hydraulic press. On this Yaris, it’s often possible to support the rack and swap the bushes in situ, but access varies. Some workshops drop the rack for a cleaner job. Either way, plan for a wheel alignment once the mounts are torqued.

Rubber or polyurethane—what suits a daily-driven Yaris?
OEM-style rubber keeps it quiet and comfy, ideal for commuting and family duty. Polyurethane tightens steering response and longevity but can transmit a bit more vibration. For most daily drivers in AU/NZ, fresh quality rubber is the sweet spot, keen drivers may prefer poly for sharper feel.