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Parts for your 2010 Toyota Hiace-Brake hose

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TRW Brake Hose - PHD324
TRW

TRW Brake Hose - PHD324

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$71
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TRW Brake Hose - PHD8004
TRW

TRW Brake Hose - PHD8004

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$100
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TRW Brake Hose - PHA205
TRW

TRW Brake Hose - PHA205

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$62
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TRW Brake Hose - PHA214
TRW

TRW Brake Hose - PHA214

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$90
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TRW Brake Hose - PHA206
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TRW Brake Hose - PHA206

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$3
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Repco Brake & Fuel Line Clamp - RST196

Repco Brake & Fuel Line Clamp - RST196

$14
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TRW Brake Hose - PHB453
TRW

TRW Brake Hose - PHB453

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$51
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GossFuel Emiss Hose (5/16) 8MM x 1M - FH80L10

GossFuel Emiss Hose (5/16) 8MM x 1M - FH80L10

$17
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TRW Brake Hose - PHA167
Clearance
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TRW Brake Hose - PHA167

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$1
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TRW Brake Hose - PHD8001
TRW

TRW Brake Hose - PHD8001

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$94
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Showing 1 - 39 of 904 products

2010 Toyota Hiace Brake Hose — What It Does and When to Replace It

Yes, a brake hose is absolutely relevant and used on the 2010 Toyota Hiace (200 Series TRH/KDH). Technical documentation backs this up: the Toyota Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) lists “Hose, Flexible” for both front and rear circuits on 200-series Hiace models, and the Toyota Hiace 200 Series Repair Manual includes a “Brake Line – Flexible Hose” section covering inspection, removal and installation. Industry standards such as SAE J1401 (hydraulic brake hose) further reflect the role of flexible brake hoses in modern hydraulic brake systems.

On a 2010 Hiace, the brake hose is the flexible section that joins the rigid brake line on the body to the moving bits at each wheel — calipers up front and the rear axle/wheel cylinders out back. It lets the suspension articulate and the steering turn while keeping brake fluid pressure rock-solid. Being rubber-reinforced (or occasionally braided), it lives a tough life: heat from the brakes, road grime, water, UV, and constant flexing. Over time, hoses can crack, swell, seep, or collapse internally. Any of these can give a spongy pedal, uneven braking, or a pull to one side, and in worst cases, a fluid leak that knocks braking performance right down.

For Aussie and Kiwi conditions, it’s smart to have the brake hoses checked at every service or WOF/roadworthy check. While there’s no strict time limit in the Toyota books, many techs treat hoses as “inspect every service, replace if any doubt,” and consider proactive replacement around the 8–12 year mark, especially if the van tows, carries weight, or works in heat, dust, or coastal environments.

  • Look for surface cracking, wetness, bulges, scuffing, or rusted fittings.
  • If one hose is suspect, replace them in axle pairs (or all four) to keep braking even.
  • Choose quality hoses meeting SAE J1401 and ADR/NZS compliance, genuine or reputable aftermarket is best.
  • Always use new copper washers on banjo fittings, route the hose correctly, and avoid twists/kinks.
  • Bleed thoroughly and check for leaks, use the brake fluid grade on the cap (Toyota specifies DOT 3, DOT 4 is commonly acceptable — never use DOT 5 silicone).
  • After replacement, road test for pedal feel, straight-line braking, and no binding.

If the Hiace starts dragging a brake, pulling under braking, or the pedal feel goes inconsistent, don’t just blame pads and rotors — a tired hose might be acting like a one-way valve inside.

Popular questions about 2010 Toyota Hiace brake hoses

How often should the brake hoses on a 2010 Hiace be replaced?

There’s no fixed interval in Toyota’s schedule, so treat them as “inspect every service.” Many workshops recommend replacement around the 8–12 year/150–200,000 km mark, or immediately if there’s any cracking, bulging, seepage, or uneven braking.

What brake fluid should be used after changing a Hiace brake hose?

Use the grade on the master cylinder cap — Toyota specifies DOT 3 for most 2010 Hiace models, and DOT 4 is commonly acceptable. Don’t use DOT 5 (silicone). Bleed in the sequence in the workshop manual and ensure a firm pedal with no leaks.

Can a bad brake hose make a Hiace pull or a brake drag?

Yes. An internally collapsed hose can restrict return flow, so the caliper doesn’t release cleanly. That can cause pulling to one side, overheated pads, or a dragging wheel. If that shows up, inspect and replace the suspect hose promptly.