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Parts for your 2010 Toyota Fortuner-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
2010 Toyota Fortuner engine-mount — what it does and when to replace it
Yes, the 2010 Toyota Fortuner absolutely uses engine mounts. Technical sources confirm it: the Toyota Repair Manual for the Fortuner/Hilux platform (AN60 series, 2005–2015) details removal and installation of left- and right-hand “engine mounting insulator” assemblies, and the Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue lists dedicated LH and RH engine-mount components and brackets for the 1KD‑FTV 3.0 D‑4D and 2TR‑FE 2.7 petrol variants. Major aftermarket parts catalogues also stock Fortuner-specific engine mounts. So the part is relevant and fitted to this vehicle.
On a 2010 Fortuner, the engine mounts are chunky rubber (often hydraulic) isolators that bolt the engine to the chassis. Their job is simple but critical: keep the engine located under the bonnet, soak up vibration, and prevent excess movement under throttle, braking, or corrugations. Good mounts make the cabin calmer, protect hoses, wiring and exhaust joints, and stop that annoying knock on take-off.
Because the Fortuner is often used for towing, touring, and gravel work across Aus and NZ, mounts can cop a hard life. It’s smart to inspect them at regular services, especially from 120,000–200,000 km or if the vehicle’s seen off‑road or heavy tow duty.
- Common symptoms: extra vibration at idle, clunks on gear changes, visible sag or cracking in the rubber, oily weep from a hydraulic mount, or the engine sitting off-centre.
- Don’t ignore it: failed mounts can stress the exhaust, driveline and ancillary brackets, and make other noises harder to diagnose.
Replacement is straightforward for a pro: support the engine, swap one side at a time, and torque to spec. Many techs recommend replacing mounts in pairs to keep balance. While there, check the transmission mount and engine stabiliser brackets too. After installation, a short recheck of fastener torque once the mounts have settled isn’t a bad shout.
- Inspect at each service or every 40,000–60,000 km if driven on corrugations.
- Use quality OEM or reputable aftermarket mounts designed for the AN60 Fortuner.
- If you feel new vibrations after other engine work (injectors, timing belt, clutch), recheck mount condition and torque.
Technical references: Toyota Repair Manual (Fortuner/Hilux AN60), sections covering “Engine Mounting Insulator LH/RH”, Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue entries for LH/RH engine-mount insulators and brackets for 2010 Fortuner, recognised aftermarket catalogues listing Fortuner-specific engine mounts.
Popular questions
How many engine mounts does a 2010 Fortuner have?
Typically two main engine mounting insulators (left and right) plus a separate transmission mount. Some variants also use additional braces or dampers. The two side mounts do most of the vibration control for the engine itself.
What are the signs my Fortuner’s engine mounts need replacing?
Extra cabin vibration at idle, a thud when shifting from reverse to drive, clunks on take-off or over bumps, or a visible tilt in the engine. Hydraulic mounts may weep fluid. If you’re unsure, a mechanic can lever-test the mounts and check for excessive engine movement.
Can it be driven with a worn mount?
It’ll usually still drive, but it’s not ideal. Prolonged driving on failed mounts can stress the exhaust, hoses and driveline, and can mask other issues. It’s best to book a replacement sooner rather than later, especially if towing or heading off-road.