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Parts for your 2010 Toyota Aurion-Sump plug washers

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Smart-O Sump Plug M12 X 1.25 Blister Pack

Smart-O Sump Plug M12 X 1.25 Blister Pack

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$30
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Smart-O Sump Plug M14 X 1.5 Blister Pack

Smart-O Sump Plug M14 X 1.5 Blister Pack

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$31
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Smart-O Sump Plug M14 X 1.5 Blister Pack

Smart-O Sump Plug M14 X 1.5 Blister Pack

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$43
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Smart-O Sump Plug M14 X 1.5 Blister Pack

Smart-O Sump Plug M14 X 1.5 Blister Pack

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$34
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Smart-O Sump Plug M12 X 1.75 Blister Pack

Smart-O Sump Plug M12 X 1.75 Blister Pack

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$26
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Smart-O Sump Plug M16 X 1.5 Blister Pack

Smart-O Sump Plug M16 X 1.5 Blister Pack

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$47
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Smart-O Sump Plug M20 X 1.5 Blister Pack

Smart-O Sump Plug M20 X 1.5 Blister Pack

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$30
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Tridon Drain / Sump Plug - M14 X 1.5mm

Tridon Drain / Sump Plug - M14 X 1.5mm

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$14
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Smart-O Sump Plug Washer

Smart-O Sump Plug Washer

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$35
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Showing 1 - 39 of 147 products

2010 Toyota Aurion sump plug washers: fitted, simple, essential

Based on Toyota’s own technical guidance and parts listings, the 2010 Toyota Aurion (GSV40 with the 2GR‑FE V6) is fitted with a separate sump plug washer. Toyota’s Electronic Parts Catalogue identifies a replaceable oil drain plug gasket for this engine (commonly the 12 mm aluminium “crush” gasket, e.g., 90430‑12031, confirm by VIN), and Toyota workshop manuals instruct replacing the drain plug gasket whenever the engine oil is changed. Major aftermarket catalogues used across Australia and New Zealand also list an aluminium crush washer for this model. So yes—this vehicle uses a sump plug washer.

On the Aurion, the sump plug washer’s whole job is to seal the drain plug against the alloy sump so fresh oil stays in and road grime stays out. It’s a soft metal ring—usually aluminium—that deforms slightly as the plug is tightened. That controlled “crush” fills tiny imperfections between the plug and sump face, creating a reliable, leak‑free seal even with heat cycles, vibrations and daily driving across Aussie and Kiwi roads.

Because it crushes to seal, this washer is designed as a single‑use item. Re‑using it can leave it work‑hardened and flattened, which risks weeping oil, streaks on the driveway, a messy undertray, and—if ignored—low oil level. The part is inexpensive, so replacing it at every service is one of the cheapest bits of preventative maintenance an Aurion owner can do.

As part of regular servicing, it’s smart practice to fit a new genuine‑spec crush washer, clean the sump face, and torque the drain plug to the factory spec (for the 2GR‑FE it’s around the high‑30s to ~40 N·m—always confirm for the exact variant). After the oil change, a quick check under the bonnet and a look underneath after the first drive will confirm everything’s tidy and dry. For workshops and keen DIYers, keeping a small packet of the correct washers on hand makes life easier and helps avoid last‑minute parts runs.

  • Always replace the washer at each oil change, don’t double‑stack old washers.
  • Use the correct size/type (typically 12 mm aluminium crush washer for the Aurion’s 2GR‑FE, verify by VIN).
  • Inspect the sump sealing face, clean off old residue before refitting.
  • Tighten the plug to spec—over‑tightening can damage threads and under‑tightening can cause leaks.
  • If there’s any sign of seepage after service, re‑check torque and washer fitment promptly.

Does a 2010 Toyota Aurion need a new sump plug washer at every oil change?

Yes. Toyota service information for the 2GR‑FE specifies replacing the drain plug gasket whenever the oil is changed. The crush washer is single‑use, swapping it each time helps ensure a proper seal and prevents annoying oil weeps.

What size and type is the 2010 Aurion sump plug washer?

It’s typically a 12 mm aluminium crush washer used with the M12 x 1.25 drain plug. A common Toyota part reference is 90430‑12031, though owners should confirm via VIN to be safe. Quality aftermarket equivalents are fine if they meet the same spec.

What happens if the washer is re‑used or the plug is over‑tightened?

Re‑using a crushed washer can lead to slow leaks. Over‑tightening to “make it seal” risks stripping sump threads—an expensive fix. Use a new washer and tighten to the correct torque so the seal forms as intended.