Parts for your 2010 Subaru Tribeca-Wheel studs nuts

2010 Subaru Tribeca wheel studs and nuts — what they do and how to look after them

Technical sources confirm the 2010 Subaru Tribeca uses wheel studs with separate wheel nuts (not wheel bolts). Subaru’s factory service information and the 2010 Tribeca Owner’s Manual specify tightening torque for the wheel nuts at 120 N·m (about 88.5 ft‑lb), and the Subaru parts catalogue lists press-in wheel studs (M12 × 1.25) for both front and rear hubs. That makes wheel-studs-nuts absolutely relevant for this model.

On the Tribeca, the studs are pressed into the hub and the wheel slides over them, the nuts clamp the wheel firmly to the hub face. Simple, tough, and easy to service. The design provides consistent clamping force, keeps the wheel centred, and makes roadside wheel changes a bit less of a faff than bolt-type setups.

Purpose-wise, those five M12 × 1.25 studs and their 60-degree conical-seat nuts are all about secure clamping. When torqued correctly, they deliver the right preload so the wheel doesn’t fret against the hub, which helps prevent brake judder, vibration, and uneven tyre wear. Treated properly, they’ll last the life of the vehicle.

As part of regular servicing or any tyre rotation on a 2010 Tribeca, it’s smart to give the wheel studs and nuts a quick once-over:

• Torque matters: tighten wheel nuts to 120 N·m with a quality torque wrench, using a star pattern. Re-check after 50–100 kilometres if the wheel’s been off.
• Keep it dry: Subaru specifies dry threads. Don’t use oil or anti‑seize on the stud or nut threads, as it alters torque readings and can over-stress the stud.
• Inspect closely: look for stretched or “necked” studs, damaged or rusty threads, and deformed nut seats. Replace anything suspect straight away.
• Match the seat: use the correct 60° conical-seat nuts. Mixing seat styles (e.g., mag or ball seat) can cause loosening and rotor runout.
• Clean contact: ensure the hub face and wheel mounting face are clean and flat—no paint build-up, rust flakes, or grit.

Replacement is straightforward if a stud’s damaged: the old stud is pressed out from the back of the hub and a new one is pressed or drawn in flush using the proper tool. Avoid hammering directly on the hub and take care around ABS components. If more than one stud is damaged on the same hub, it’s good practice to check the rest and the nuts for matching wear.

Treat the Tribeca’s studs and nuts with the right torque and a bit of care, and they’ll keep wheels snug and safe for many kilometres of Aussie and Kiwi roads.

What’s the correct wheel nut torque for a 2010 Subaru Tribeca?

The specified torque is 120 N·m (about 88.5 ft‑lb) on clean, dry threads. Tighten in a star pattern to seat the wheel evenly. It’s a good idea to re-torque after 50–100 km if the wheel has been off.

What thread size and seat type does it use?

The Tribeca uses five M12 × 1.25 studs with 60‑degree conical-seat wheel nuts. The bolt pattern is 5 × 114.3. Stick with the correct seat type—mixing seats can lead to loosening and vibration.

Can I drive with a broken wheel stud?

It’s not recommended. A missing or broken stud reduces clamping force and can overload the remaining studs. Replace it promptly, in NZ a broken or missing wheel fastener can cause a WOF fail, and it’s a safety risk anywhere.