Parts for your 2010 Subaru Outback-Crank angle sensor

2010 Subaru Outback crank-angle-sensor: purpose, servicing and replacement

Relevant technical sources confirm the 2010 Subaru Outback is fitted with a crank-angle-sensor (commonly called the crankshaft position sensor, CKP). The Subaru Factory Service Manual for the 2010 Outback/Liberty (BR/BM) describes the CKP’s role in engine management, and the Subaru FAST parts catalogue lists a Crankshaft Position Sensor for both the 2.5-litre EJ25 and the 3.6-litre EZ36 engines used that year. Independent repair manuals echo this, noting the ECM won’t run the engine without a valid CKP signal.

On the 2010 Outback, the crank-angle-sensor keeps the show on the road by telling the engine computer exactly where the crankshaft is and how fast it’s spinning. Using a magnetic pickup and a toothed trigger wheel, it provides timing for fuel injection and spark, helps with misfire detection, and ensures smooth starting. Lose that signal and the ute will crank but likely won’t fire, if it does run, it can stumble, stall, or go into limp mode. Subaru’s service literature places the sensor mounted to the engine block, reading the crank trigger, on EJ25 models it’s typically at the top rear of the block near the bellhousing, with similar intent on the EZ36 layout.

There’s no scheduled replacement interval in Subaru’s maintenance guidance, so it’s a “inspect and replace on condition” item. Good servicing practice on a 2010 Outback includes: keeping the connector clean and tight, checking the loom where it runs past hot or vibrating areas, and ensuring the sensor’s mounting face is clean so the non‑adjustable air gap remains correct. If the dash shows a check engine light with codes like P0335 or P0336, or the car has intermittent no‑start when hot, this sensor and its wiring are prime suspects.

• Common symptoms of a failing CKP: long crank/no start, sudden stalling, rough idle, poor fuel economy, and stored DTCs.
• Replacement tips: disconnect the battery, allow the engine to cool, unplug the connector, remove the retaining bolt, swap the sensor, and refit to factory torque. Use an OEM or reputable brand sensor, then clear codes and perform an idle relearn if required.
• Time and tools: typically 0.5–1.0 hour with basic hand tools, access can be tighter on some models under the bonnet.

Technicians and owners alike can rely on the Subaru Factory Service Manual (BR/BM), Subaru Global Service Information, and the Subaru FAST electronic parts catalogue for specifications and diagnostics related to the crank-angle-sensor on this model.

FAQs

Where is the crank-angle-sensor on a 2010 Subaru Outback?
On EJ25-equipped 2010 Outbacks, it’s typically mounted at the top rear of the engine block near the bellhousing, reading a trigger on the crank. On the EZ36, it serves the same role but sits in a slightly different spot on the block. Access is from under the bonnet, remove intake ducting if needed for room.

What are the signs the crank-angle-sensor is failing?
Classic signs include extended cranking or a no‑start, random stalling once warm, rough idle, misfire vibes, and the check engine light with codes such as P0335/P0336. Heat‑soak faults that appear after a short stop at the servo are common when the sensor ages.

Is it safe to drive with a dodgy crank-angle-sensor?
Not really. It may run poorly or cut out without warning, which isn’t ideal for safety or the health of the catalytic converter. If it’s throwing codes or stalling, sort it promptly—towing to a workshop can save a heap of hassle.