Your Selected Vehicle
Parts for your 2010 Nissan Pulsar-Engine mount
Explore 4WD & Adventure
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
2010 Nissan Pulsar Engine Mount — Purpose, Service Tips, and When to Replace
Engine mounts are absolutely used on the 2010 Nissan “Pulsar” family equivalent (sold locally as Tiida C11 and Bluebird Sylphy G11 in many AU/NZ deliveries). Technical references such as the Nissan C11/G11 Factory Service Manual (Engine Mounting System sections) and Nissan Genuine Parts catalogues specify multiple rubber/hydraulic insulators and torque rods supporting the engine and transmission. So yes, an engine mount is relevant and fitted to this vehicle.
On this model, the engine mount setup anchors the engine and gearbox to the subframe and side rails, keeping the powertrain secure while isolating vibration. It’s there to stop the donk from shuddering the cabin at idle, limit twist when you jump on the throttle, and protect driveline components from shock. Comfort, noise control, and drivetrain alignment all ride on those mounts doing their job.
They’re wear items, but there’s no fixed replacement interval. The smart play is to inspect them during regular servicing (around every 10,000–15,000 km) or whenever there’s a vibe or knock under the bonnet. City heat, rough roads, oil leaks, and age can crack the rubber or drain the fluid from hydraulic mounts. Once they’re soft or split, the engine can sit lower, clunk on take-off, and send more buzz through the steering wheel and seats.
- Common symptoms: harsh vibration at idle in Drive, clunking on acceleration/braking, excessive engine rock, visible cracks or collapsed rubber, and sometimes oily residue from a leaking mount.
- Good practice: support the engine with a hoist or support bar, replace mounts in pairs if they’re the same age, and torque all fasteners at normal ride height to avoid pre-load.
- Parts choice: genuine or quality aftermarket mounts keep NVH in check, bargain-basement options can feel buzzy.
Replacement time varies by position. The right-hand engine mount and left-hand trans mount are usually straight-forward, the rear “roll stopper” can be tighter for access. After fitting, a quick road test to check for new noises and verifying idle quality is wise. If a mount failed due to an oil leak, fix the leak too, or the new mount will cop it again.
Popular questions about 2010 Nissan Pulsar engine mounts
How many engine mounts does it have?
Most 2010 Pulsar/Tiida/Sylphy variants run three to four mounts: right-hand engine mount, left-hand transmission mount, and one or two torque/roll mounts front and/or rear. Exact count depends on engine/trans combo, but the layout is similar across the range.
What’s the usual lifespan?
Plenty last beyond 120,000–180,000 km, but heat, stop–start use, and fluid leaks can shorten that. Once vibration or clunks show up, inspection is due—no need to wait for a set kilometre figure.
Is it safe to drive with a worn engine mount?
Short term, usually yes if it’s only minor vibration. If there’s heavy knocking, excessive movement, or the mount has collapsed, it can stress exhausts, hoses, and shafts—best to sort it promptly. A typical replacement is a few hours depending on access and tooling.