Parts for your 2010 Nissan Pathfinder-Control arms

2010 Nissan Pathfinder control-arms

Control-arms are absolutely used on the 2010 Nissan Pathfinder (R51). The Nissan Factory Service Manual for the R51—see FSU (Front Suspension) and RSU (Rear Suspension)—specifies an independent double-wishbone front end with upper and lower control arms, and a rear multi-link live axle using upper and lower trailing/control arms plus a lateral link. Technical catalogues such as Nissan’s EPC/FAST and common workshop references (e.g., Haynes and AllData) list complete front upper and lower control-arm assemblies, bushes, and ball joints for this model year. So control-arms are relevant service items on the 2010 Pathfinder.

On a 2010 Pathfinder, the control-arms locate each wheel, set camber and caster, and let the suspension move through its travel without the steering getting pulled around. The bushes soak up vibration and keep things quiet, while the front lower arms carry the ball joints that pivot the steering knuckle. Together, they keep the tyres planted, the geometry stable under brakes, and the ride tidy whether it’s school runs, towing a boat, or heading down gravel tracks.

With age, rubber bushes harden, crack, or separate from their sleeves, and ball joints wear. The tell-tales are usually noises and handling changes. Leaving it too long can chew out tyres and put extra load on shocks and steering.

• Clunks or knocks over bumps
• Shimmy or vibration at 80–100 km/h
• Wandering, or pulling under braking
• Uneven or feathered tyre wear
• Steering knock when turning into driveways
• Cracked ball joint boots or torn bushes

Best practice is to inspect front and rear arms at every service or 10–15,000 kilometres. If there’s play at the ball joints or torn bushes, replace the affected arm or bush pair. On the front, a complete arm with pre-pressed bushes and joint often saves labour. Always torque arm bolts with the vehicle at ride height to avoid pre-loading the bushes, and book a four-wheel alignment straight after replacement to reset camber/caster and toe.

• Choose quality OE-spec bushes, polyurethane gives a firmer feel but can add a bit of NVH
• Replace eccentric cam bolts if rusty or seized
• Check sway bar links and rack ends at the same time
• In coastal areas, treat hardware with anti-seize and rust inhibitor
• Re-torque fasteners after 500–1,000 km if components bed in

R51s that tow or see corrugations may need bush sets sooner than city cars. Sorting tired control-arms transforms stability, braking confidence, and tyre life, keeping a 2010 Nissan Pathfinder feeling tight and trustworthy.

Popular questions

What are the signs my 2010 Pathfinder’s control-arms need replacing?

Listen for clunks over bumps, and watch for steering shimmy around highway speeds. Uneven tyre wear, a pull under braking, vague turn-in, or visibly torn bushes and split ball joint boots also point to worn control-arms.

If in doubt, a workshop can check bush condition and ball joint play with the vehicle on a hoist while the suspension is unloaded.

Do I need a wheel alignment after replacing control-arms?

Yes. Changing arms or bushes alters camber, caster, and toe. A four-wheel alignment is essential right after the job to protect tyres and restore straight-line stability and steering feel.

Ask for the print-out so you can see the before/after specs.

How long do control-arm bushes last on a 2010 Pathfinder?

It varies with use, but many last 80,000–160,000 km. Towing, corrugated roads, heavy loads, and heat can shorten that window. Inspect at every service, replace when cracked, separated, or causing geometry to drift.

Front lower arms often go first, followed by rear trailing arm bushes on vehicles that tow or see rough tracks.