Parts for your 2010 Mitsubishi Lancer-Wheel studs nuts

2010 Mitsubishi Lancer Wheel Studs & Nuts

Based on Mitsubishi technical references—the CY/CZ Lancer Workshop Manual (Wheels and Tyres section), the Owner’s Manual (wheel changing and torque guidance), and the Mitsubishi ASA electronic parts catalogue—the 2010 Mitsubishi Lancer is fitted with press-in wheel studs and separate wheel nuts (not wheel bolts). This makes wheel-studs-nuts fully relevant to this model.

On the 2010 Lancer, the studs are pressed into the hub and provide the locating posts for the wheel. The nuts clamp the wheel tight to the hub face, keeping everything centred and secure. Mitsubishi specifies a metric thread (M12 x 1.5) on these cars, and variants may have four or five studs per wheel depending on trim. The stud-and-nut setup helps reduce cross-threading during wheel changes and makes roadside tyre swaps easier—handy for Aussie and Kiwi drivers who like to DIY.

As part of regular servicing—think tyre rotations, brake pad swaps, or any time the wheels are off—studs and nuts deserve a quick once-over. They cop heat, road grime, and the odd air-gun assault, so:

• Inspect for stretched, flattened, or rusty threads, replace any damaged studs or nuts straight away.
• Check that the nut seat matches the wheel seat (most OEM Lancer wheels use a 60° conical seat). Mixing seat types can loosen wheels.
• Avoid lubricants on threads unless a service bulletin says otherwise, lubrication changes clamping force at a given torque.
• Tighten nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench to the factory spec shown in the Owner’s Manual or tyre placard (commonly around 100 N·m for many Lancer variants). Re-check torque after 50–100 km.

If a stud spins in the hub or a nut won’t start by hand, stop and sort it. A spinning stud usually means the knurl has let go—press the old stud out and fit a new one with the correct knurl diameter and length for the hub. If a nut has swollen, cracked, or the seat is chewed, bin it and replace as a set. When changing to aftermarket wheels, confirm the seat type and nut length, and use hub-centric rings if required so the wheel sits true.

Look after the wheel studs and nuts, and the Lancer’s wheels will stay tight, quiet, and safe—no shakes, no drama, just good motoring.

Popular questions about 2010 Mitsubishi Lancer wheel studs and nuts

Are the 2010 Lancer’s wheels held on by studs and nuts or bolts?
The 2010 Lancer uses press-in wheel studs with separate nuts. This is documented in Mitsubishi’s CY/CZ Lancer Workshop Manual and reflected in the OEM parts listings, which show individual studs and wheel nuts for each hub.

What torque should the wheel nuts be tightened to?
Always follow the figure on the tyre/wheel placard or in the Owner’s Manual. Many 2010 Lancer variants sit around 100 N·m, but the correct spec for the specific trim and wheel must be used. Torque in a star pattern and re-check after 50–100 km.

When should wheel studs or nuts be replaced?
Replace any time threads are damaged, a stud is bent or spins in the hub, nuts are cracked or the seats are mismatched to the wheel. If wheels have been over-tightened with an impact gun, it’s worth inspecting closely during the next service.