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Parts for your 2010 Isuzu D-max-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
2010 Isuzu D‑Max engine mount — purpose, servicing and replacement
Engine mounts are absolutely used on the 2010 Isuzu D‑Max. Technical sources that detail this include the Isuzu D‑Max (TFR/TFS, 2008–2012) Workshop Manual under Engine Mechanical – Engine Mounting, the Isuzu Electronic Parts Catalogue (TFR/TFS) that lists left‑ and right‑hand engine mounting insulators and brackets for 4JJ1/4JK1 engines, and Australian/NZ aftermarket catalogues (e.g., Mackay Rubber) listing direct‑fit mounts for this model. These references confirm the vehicle is designed with dedicated engine mounts.
On a 2010 D‑Max, the engine mounts secure the diesel donk to the chassis while isolating vibration and noise. They keep the driveline aligned under load, manage torque reactions when towing or heading off‑road, and protect hoses, wiring and the exhaust from stress as the engine moves. Good mounts mean fewer vibes through the cabin and a happier gearbox and tailshaft.
While engine mounts aren’t a scheduled consumable, they deserve a look during major services, WOF/Warrant checks, or before big trips. Owners can expect long life in normal use, but heavy towing, corrugations, oil contamination, or age hardening of the rubber will shorten it. An easy inspection checklist includes:
- Excess vibration at idle or a rough buzz through the seat or steering.
- Clunks on take‑off, gear changes, or when lifting off the throttle.
- Visible cracks, perishing or separation of the rubber, collapsed engine height, heat‑damaged or oil‑soaked mounts.
- Exhaust flex joint strained or fan/shroud misalignment.
When replacement’s on the cards, a workshop will support the engine with a support bar or hoist, swap one side at a time, and torque fasteners to spec on level ground. It’s smart to replace mounts in pairs and inspect the transmission mount at the same time. Choose genuine or reputable aftermarket mounts suited to 4JJ1/4JK1 engines, avoid cheapies that transmit more NVH or collapse early.
Handy tips: don’t jack on the sump, keep clear of pinch points, refit any heat shields, and recheck fastener torque after a few hundred kilometres. For hard‑working utes, add mount inspection to the 40–50,000 km service routine. If a mount is torn or collapsed, keep driving to a minimum—excess movement can stress the exhaust, hoses and driveline and can crack brackets.
Popular questions
How many engine mounts does a 2010 D‑Max have?
Most 2010 D‑Max models use two primary engine mounts (left and right) plus a separate transmission mount. Some variants include additional brackets or stays, but the core setup is two engine mounts supporting the block and one mount supporting the gearbox crossmember.
How long do engine mounts typically last on a 2010 D‑Max?
In everyday Aussie and Kiwi driving, mounts commonly last 150,000–250,000 km. Heavy towing, off‑road corrugations, heat, and oil contamination can shorten that. Regular inspections help catch perishing or collapse before it turns into vibration or driveline stress.
Is it safe to drive with a worn engine mount?
It’ll usually still drive, but it’s not ideal. A failed or badly perished mount increases vibration and can let the engine move enough to strain the exhaust, hoses and wiring, and cause harsh shifts. It’s best to book a replacement promptly to prevent knock‑on damage.