Parts for your 2010 Holden Captiva 7-Wheel studs nuts

2010 Holden Captiva 7 wheel studs and nuts — what they do and how to look after them

Yes, the 2010 Holden Captiva 7 uses wheel studs with separate wheel nuts. That’s confirmed in the Holden CG Series Captiva Service Manual (Wheels and Tyres section, which specifies tightening “wheel nuts”), GM Global Service Information procedures for Front/Rear Wheel Stud Replacement, and the Holden Electronic Parts Catalogue listing M12 x 1.5 wheel studs for CG Captiva hubs. So if you’re chasing wheel-studs-nuts for a 2010 Captiva 7, you’re on the right track.

On this model, five pressed-in studs are fitted to each hub, and the wheel is clamped on with matching tapered-seat wheel nuts. Their whole job is simple but critical: keep the wheel and brake rotor securely clamped to the hub with the right preload so nothing moves, squeaks, or wobbles. Correct clamping force is what keeps the wheel true and the braking consistent.

For servicing, the basics matter. Workshop guidance for the Captiva 7 calls for tightening the wheel nuts to about 140 N·m using a proper torque wrench, done in a star pattern so the wheel seats evenly. After any wheel-off job—rotation, brake work, puncture repair—re-check the torque after 50–100 km. The studs and nuts should be clean and dry, avoid anti-seize or grease on the threads or nut seats, as the specified torque is for dry threads and lubrication can lead to over-clamping and stretched studs.

When to replace? If there’s visible thread damage, if a nut runs rough or won’t torque smoothly, or if a stud has been over-tightened or cross-threaded, don’t chance it—replace the affected hardware. Captiva 7 studs are pressed into the hub, the usual method is to remove the caliper and rotor, press or drive the old stud out, then draw the new stud in squarely with a suitable tool and spacer stack, checking it seats fully against the hub flange. If several studs are suspect, it’s worth inspecting the hub face for damage too.

Parts selection tips for the Captiva 7:

• Use quality M12 x 1.5 studs and matching 60° taper nuts.
• Stick with the correct 5-stud pattern and seat type—mixing seat styles can loosen wheels.
• Avoid impact guns for final tightening, use a torque wrench.

Technical references: Holden CG Captiva Service Manual (Wheels and Tyres, Wheel Stud Replacement), GM Global Service Information (GMSi), and Holden Electronic Parts Catalogue for CG Captiva wheel fasteners.

Popular questions about 2010 Holden Captiva 7 wheel studs and nuts

What’s the wheel nut torque for a 2010 Captiva 7?
The workshop spec is around 140 N·m. Tighten in a star pattern on a clean, dry hub and re-check after 50–100 km of driving. Using a torque wrench helps avoid stretched studs and warped rotors.

What thread and seat type does it use?
The Captiva 7 uses M12 x 1.5 wheel studs with matching 60° tapered-seat nuts. It’s a 5-stud hub. Keeping the correct taper is essential for proper clamping and wheel centring.

Can anti-seize be used on Captiva 7 wheel studs?
Best practice per GM/Holden service info is to fit nuts dry on clean threads. Lubricants change the friction and can lead to over-torque, risking stud stretch or rotor distortion.