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Parts for your 2010 Holden Captiva 5-Oil seals
Nulon Long Life Green Coolant Concentrate 5L - LL5
Nulon Premium Long Life Pink Coolant Concentrate 5L - PLL5
Nulon Premium Long Life Pink Coolant Premix 5L - PLLTU5
Nulon Premium Long Life Blue Coolant Concentrate 5L - BLL5
Nulon Premium Long Life Blue Coolant Premix 5L - BLLTU5
Nulon Premium Long Life Pink Coolant Premix 1L - PLLTU1
Explore 4WD & Adventure
Nulon Long Life Green Coolant Concentrate 1L - LL1
Nulon Long Life Red Coolant Premix 1L - RLLTU1
Nulon Premium Long Life Blue Coolant Premix 1L - BLLTU1
Nulon Long Life Green Coolant Concentrate 2.5L - LL2.5
Nulon Long Life Red Coolant Concentrate 20L - RLL20
Nulon Green Radiator Corrosion Protector 500ml - RCPG-500
Nulon Premium Long Life Blue Coolant Concentrate 20L Bucket - BLL20
Penrite ATF FS Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid 4L - ATFFS004
Penrite ATF MHP Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid 20L - ATFMHP020
2010 Holden Captiva 5 oil seals — fitment, purpose and service tips
Technical references including the Holden CG Captiva Workshop Manual (GM Global Service Information, 2010), the Holden Electronic Parts Catalogue, and common OEM/aftermarket listings (ACDelco, SKF/CR, NOK) confirm the 2010 Holden Captiva 5 is fitted with multiple oil seals. These include the front and rear crankshaft oil seals, camshaft seals, transaxle/driveshaft output seals, and various ancillary shaft seals. Oil seals are therefore fully relevant to the 2010 Captiva 5.
On this model, oil seals do the heavy lifting of keeping lubricants in and grit out. In the engine, the front crank seal (behind the crank pulley) and the rear main seal (between engine and gearbox) control engine oil losses and help protect bearings. Around the top end, camshaft seals keep oil inside the timing cover area. In the transaxle, the driveshaft/output seals prevent gear oil or ATF from weeping where the CV shafts enter the transmission. Quality elastomers such as NBR or FKM/Viton are used to handle heat, rotation and modern lubricants.
There’s no fixed change interval for oil seals, they’re replaced based on condition or while other work is underway. As per workshop guidance, seals are often renewed during clutch work (manual), timing/chain front-end work, or when a driveshaft is out for CV service. Regular servicing should include a visual once-over for any wetness at the bellhousing, under the crank pulley, or around the transaxle outputs.
- Common leak clues: fresh oil mist on the undertray, spots on the driveway, burnt-oil smells after a drive, or low oil between services.
- Good practice when replacing: use a correct seal driver, lightly oil the lip, check the crankcase breather/PCV so pressure doesn’t push out new seals, inspect for wear grooves and sleeve if needed, torque pulleys and housings to spec, and choose OEM-equivalent materials.
- For higher-kilometre Captiva 5s, owners often see axle seal weeps first, followed by front crank or cam seals, rear main is less frequent but more labour-intensive.
Keeping an eye on these seals during routine services helps the Captiva 5 avoid nuisance leaks, protects the timing gear and transmission, and keeps oil where it belongs.
Popular questions
Does a 2010 Holden Captiva 5 have a rear main seal?
Yes. The rear main seal sits at the back of the 2.4‑litre engine where it meets the gearbox, and it prevents engine oil escaping into the bellhousing. The workshop manual details inspection via the lower covers and bellhousing area for tell‑tale wetness.
Typical symptoms include oil dampness at the engine–transmission join and spots under the car after parking. Because replacement requires separating the transmission from the engine, it’s commonly done when the gearbox is already out for other repairs.
How often should oil seals be replaced on a Captiva 5?
There’s no scheduled interval. Seals are replaced on evidence of leakage or while related components are apart. During routine services, technicians check the crank pulley area, bellhousing, and the transaxle output seals for weeping.
In Australian and New Zealand conditions, many seals last well beyond 150,000 km, but age, heat, and crankcase pressure can shorten that. Proactive PCV/breather checks help extend seal life.
What does it typically cost to replace common oil seals?
Ballpark figures vary by workshop and transmission type. Front crank or cam seals are often 2–4 hours of labour plus parts, axle/output seals 1–2 hours, rear main seal can be 6–10 hours due to transmission removal.
As a rough guide, owners in AU/NZ might expect a few hundred dollars for a front or axle seal job, and notably more for a rear main seal. A firm estimate depends on engine/trans combination and what else is being done at the same time.