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Parts for your 2010 Holden Astra-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob 300A (Contacts Rated 300A @ 12V) - 61045BL
2010 Holden Astra engine-mount: what it does and when to replace it
Engine-mounts are absolutely used on the 2010 Holden Astra. Technical documentation for the Astra H platform (which covers late-registered 2009–2010 Holden Astra models in Australia and New Zealand) details multiple mounts: a right-hand engine mount, a left-hand transmission mount, and a lower torque link/dogbone. This is described in GM Service Information (Astra-H “Engine Mounting” procedures) and the Opel/Vauxhall Astra H workshop guidance, as well as independent references like the Haynes Owners Workshop Manual for Astra (2004–2009). The GM/Opel electronic parts catalogues likewise list these mountings for both petrol and diesel variants. So, the engine-mount is very much relevant on a 2010 Holden Astra.
On this Astra, the mounts secure the engine and gearbox to the subframe while isolating vibration, keeping the cabin calm and the driveline aligned. The upper right hydromount carries most engine weight, the left mount supports the transmission, and the lower torque link controls fore–aft rock when taking off or shifting. Good mounts protect CV joints, exhaust flex sections, and accessories by limiting harsh movement and noise (NVH).
Typical warning signs include a thump on take-off, noticeable shake at idle (especially with the A/C on), clunks when coming on/off the throttle, or visible sagging, cracking, or fluid weeping from the hydromount. Under the bonnet, an assistant blipping the throttle while the engine is observed (safely) can reveal excessive movement.
As part of routine servicing, it’s smart to:
- Inspect all mounts every 20,000–30,000 km (or at each service) for perished rubber, collapsed height, or leaked hydraulic fluid.
- Check for oil contamination from cam cover or other leaks, oil-soaked rubber fails early.
- Listen and feel for new NVH after other work (e.g., exhaust or driveshafts) that might indicate a stressed mount.
When replacement’s due, support the engine properly (an engine support bar or a jack with timber under the sump), change one mount at a time, and use new fasteners where GM specifies torque-to-yield bolts. Align the hydromount correctly if it has an orientation mark, torque to spec with angle-tightening, then road-test and recheck. Many Astra H mounts last 100,000–180,000 km, but heat, rough roads, and fluid leaks can shorten that. Quality OEM or reputable aftermarket mounts keep NVH under control and help the Astra feel tight and tidy.
Popular questions about 2010 Holden Astra engine-mounts
1) What are the signs my Astra’s engine-mounts are worn?
Owners often notice extra vibration at idle, a knock when shifting from Reverse to Drive (or when lifting off), or a clunk on take-off. Under-bonnet checks may show the engine sitting low on one side, split rubber, or fluid seepage from the hydromount. If NVH gets worse with the A/C on, that’s another common hint.
2) Can they keep driving with a bad engine-mount?
It will usually still drive, but it’s not wise. Excess movement can stress the exhaust flex, driveshafts, and even other mounts, turning a simple job into a pricier one. If there’s heavy knocking or visible collapse, it’s best to sort it promptly.
3) How much does replacement typically cost?
Costs vary by mount and labour time. As a rough guide, many workshops quote in the low-to-mid hundreds per mount supplied and fitted, depending on whether it’s the hydromount, gearbox mount, or lower torque link, and whether genuine or aftermarket parts are chosen.