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Parts for your 2009 Toyota Land cruiser-Wheel studs nuts

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MaxiTrac Extendable Wheel Wrench
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MaxiTrac Extendable Wheel Wrench

$35.70
$51
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MaxiTrac Folding Wheel Brace
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MaxiTrac Folding Wheel Brace

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Wildcat Wheel Lock Nut - STE15

Wildcat Wheel Lock Nut - STE15

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$54
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Nice Products Wheel Nut - NN421

Nice Products Wheel Nut - NN421

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$5
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Wildcat Wheel Nut - 94A154

Wildcat Wheel Nut - 94A154

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$43
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Wildcat Wheel Nut - 94A1254

Wildcat Wheel Nut - 94A1254

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$43
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Nice Products Wheel Stud - NS2710

Nice Products Wheel Stud - NS2710

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$40
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Wildcat Wheel Lock Nut - STE12

Wildcat Wheel Lock Nut - STE12

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$54
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Wildcat Wheel Lock Nut - STE125

Wildcat Wheel Lock Nut - STE125

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Showing 1 - 39 of 229 products

2009 Toyota Land Cruiser (200 Series) wheel studs and nuts

Technical references confirm the 2009 Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Series is built with pressed‑in wheel studs and separate wheel nuts. The Toyota Owner’s Manual for this model specifies a wheel nut tightening torque of 131 N·m (97 lbf·ft). The Toyota Repair Manual for the 200 Series (Suspension & Axle – Axle Hub sections) details procedures for removing and installing front and rear wheel studs. The Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC) for J200 (2008–2011) lists both the studs and taper‑seat wheel nuts as serviceable components. So wheel studs and nuts are relevant and factory‑fitted on this vehicle.

On a 2009 LandCruiser 200, the wheel studs and nuts do the simple but critical job of clamping the wheel evenly to the hub. The pressed‑in studs (M14 x 1.5 on this platform) and the cone‑seat nuts create a strong, centred clamp that handles heavy loads, towing, corrugations, and off‑road punishment. Done up to the correct torque, they keep the wheel true, protect the brake rotors and hubs from movement, and help prevent stud fatigue.

As part of regular servicing or any wheel‑off job, it’s smart to give the studs and nuts a once‑over:

  • Clean the threads with a wire brush, make sure they’re dry and oil‑free. Don’t lubricate wheel studs or nuts, as it alters torque and clamping force.
  • Inspect for stretching, nicks, rust pitting, or cross‑threading. Replace any suspect studs or nuts—mixing good and bad hardware is false economy.
  • Torque wheel nuts to 131 N·m with a calibrated torque wrench. Avoid relying on a rattle gun for final tightening.
  • After tyre rotations, new wheels, or brake work, re‑torque after 50–100 km of driving.

Replacement is straightforward: a damaged stud is pressed or driven out of the hub flange and a new stud is pulled into place using a washer stack and an old nut (or installed with a press). Always support the hub properly and protect the wheel bearing seal. On vehicles that see beach work or alpine roads, corrosion is the enemy—periodic inspection and timely replacement pays off. If wheels have aftermarket offsets or thicker centres, ensure the nut’s taper matches the wheel seat and that there’s full nut engagement (at least the stud’s diameter in thread depth).

For remote touring, keeping a couple of spare studs and nuts in the kit is cheap insurance. Correct torque, clean dry threads, and quality components will keep the Cruiser’s wheels tight, true, and ready for the next long haul.

Popular questions

What’s the correct wheel nut torque for a 2009 LandCruiser 200?
Toyota specifies 131 N·m (97 lbf·ft) on clean, dry threads with the standard taper‑seat nuts. Use a torque wrench for final tightening and re‑check after 50–100 km following any wheel removal.

How often should wheel nuts be re‑torqued after tyre work?
After any wheel‑off job—new tyres, rotation, brake service—re‑torque the nuts after 50–100 km. This helps account for paint crush, wheel seating, and any minor thermal cycles, especially important on heavy touring set‑ups.

Can individual wheel studs be replaced, or does the hub need changing?
Individual studs can be replaced without changing the hub. The damaged stud is driven/pressed out and a new stud is drawn in squarely. If multiple studs are damaged or the hub flange holes are flogged out, further hub inspection is warranted.

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