Parts for your 2009 Honda Stream-Wheel studs nuts

2009 Honda Stream wheel studs and nuts

Based on technical references including the Honda Stream RN6–RN9 Service Manual (2007–2012), Honda’s Electronic Parts Catalogue, and common fitment data from reputable fastener catalogues, the 2009 Honda Stream uses press-in wheel studs with separate wheel (lug) nuts, five per wheel. The studs are M12 × 1.5 thread with 60° taper-seat nuts, and Honda specifies tightening to approximately 108 N·m. So yes—wheel studs and nuts are absolutely relevant to this model.

On a 2009 Honda Stream, the wheel studs and nuts do the heavy lifting that keeps each wheel clamped firmly to the hub. The studs are splined and pressed into the hub from the rear, and the nuts apply clamping force across the wheel and brake rotor hat when torqued correctly. Done right, that clamping keeps the wheel centred, stops brake judder, and protects bearings from undue loads. It’s simple gear, but it’s mission-critical.

Servicing-wise, they’re worth a look at every tyre rotation or brake job. Threads should be clean and dry—Honda does not call for lubricants on the stud or nut seats. Over-tightening with a rattle gun can stretch studs or distort nuts, so final torque should be set with a torque wrench. After any wheel removal, it’s smart to recheck torque after 50–100 kilometres.

• Typical spec: M12 × 1.5 studs, 60° taper-seat nuts, torque ~108 N·m
• Check interval: at each tyre rotation, brake service, or every 10,000–15,000 kilometres
• Do not lubricate threads/seats, torque dry and in a star pattern

Signs it’s time to replace hardware include damaged or cross-threaded nuts, visibly stretched or rusty studs, nuts that won’t hold torque, or a stud that’s spun in the hub. Replacement is usually straightforward: remove the calliper and rotor for access, press or drive the old stud out, draw the new stud into the hub flange squarely using a sacrificial nut and spacers, then refit the rotor and calliper. Choose quality studs with the correct knurl diameter and length for the Stream’s hub, mixing seat styles (e.g., mag-seat vs taper) or using the wrong hex can cause wheel movement or thread damage.

1. Clean the hub and wheel mating faces.
2. Hand-start all five nuts to avoid cross-threading.
3. Torque to ~108 N·m in a criss-cross (star) pattern.
4. Recheck torque after 50–100 kilometres.

For coastal or high-corrosion areas around Australia and New Zealand, regular inspections help catch pitting or seized nuts before they become a roadside headache.

What size and thread are the wheel nuts on a 2009 Honda Stream?

They use M12 × 1.5 thread with a 60° taper seat, typically with a 19 mm hex. Honda specifies tightening to around 108 N·m on clean, dry threads and seats. Always use the correct seat style to match the factory wheels or approved aftermarket rims.

Can individual wheel studs be replaced, or does the whole hub need changing?

Individual studs can usually be replaced without changing the hub. The calliper and rotor are removed for access, the damaged stud is driven or pressed out, and a new stud is pulled into place squarely. If a stud’s splines have spun and damaged the hub bore, the hub may need replacement.

Should anti-seize be used on Honda wheel nuts?

Honda procedures call for dry torque—no oil or anti-seize on studs or nut seats—because lubricants alter clamping force for a given torque. If corrosion is an issue, address it by cleaning mating faces and replacing compromised hardware rather than lubricating the threads.