Your Selected Vehicle
Parts for your 2009 Holden Captiva 7-Engine mount
Explore 4WD & Adventure
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043
Engine mount for 2009 Holden Captiva 7
Based on technical sources, an engine mount is absolutely fitted to the 2009 Holden Captiva 7. The Holden/GM CG Captiva service manual (Chevrolet Captiva C100/C140 platform) includes procedures for “Engine Mount Replacement – Right Side”, “Left Side”, “Front Torque Rod” and “Rear Mount”. GM’s Electronic Parts Catalogue for the CG series lists engine insulators and torque struts across the 2.0 VCDi diesel, 2.4 petrol and 3.2 V6. Major AU/NZ aftermarket catalogues also specify multiple mounts for this model. That confirms the part is relevant and used on this vehicle.
On this Captiva 7, the engine mounts do the heavy lifting of holding the engine in place while soaking up vibration so the cabin stays calm. Typically there are side mounts plus a front torque rod/roll stopper to control fore–aft movement during take-off and gear changes. When they’re healthy, owners get smoother idle, cleaner shifts and less stress on exhausts, driveshafts and hoses.
There’s no fixed replacement interval, but mounts are wear items. A quick check at each service pays off, especially from 100,000 to 160,000 kilometres or if the car tows or does lots of city starts. Look for split rubber, collapsed or oil-soaked bushings, and on hydraulic mounts, signs of fluid weep. Excessive engine movement when blipping the throttle with the bonnet up, or a clunk on take-off, are dead giveaways.
- Common symptoms on a Captiva 7:
- Noticeable vibration at idle or in Drive while stationary
- Thud/clunk on acceleration, braking or gear changes
- Exhaust knocking or added NVH after other engine/trans work
- Visible sag or cracked rubber, or leaked fluid from a mount
When replacing, support the engine with a proper support bar or from underneath on the subframe—never jack on the sump. Fit quality OEM or equivalent hydraulic mounts and torque the fasteners with the engine at normal ride height. Some bolts are torque-to-yield and single-use—check the service manual and replace hardware as specified. If one mount has failed, it’s smart to inspect the remaining mounts and the front torque rod, pairing replacements can restore NVH balance. After fitting, recheck clearances around the exhaust and cooling hoses, and road test for vibration under load.
A competent home mechanic can handle a torque rod in around an hour, side or rear mounts can take longer due to access. If in doubt, book it with a workshop familiar with CG-series Captiva quirks.
How many engine mounts does a 2009 Holden Captiva 7 have?
Most Captiva 7 variants use three main mounts plus a front torque rod/roll stopper. Layout and part numbers vary slightly between the 2.0 diesel, 2.4 petrol and 3.2 V6, but the concept is the same—side mounts support the weight, and a torque mount controls twist under load.
What are the signs my Captiva 7’s engine mount has failed?
Expect increased vibration at idle, a thump on take-off or when shifting, visible rubber cracking or sag, and in some cases fluid leakage from hydraulic mounts. You might also notice the exhaust contacting under load or more vibration through the steering and floor.
Is it safe to keep driving with a worn engine mount?
Short trips may be possible, but it’s not ideal. A failed mount can stress the exhaust, driveshafts and hoses, and it can accelerate wear on other mounts. It’s best to get it inspected and sorted promptly to avoid bigger bills and annoying NVH.