Parts for your 2008 Toyota Ractis-Gas struts

2008 Toyota Ractis gas struts

Gas struts are relevant to the 2008 Toyota Ractis. Toyota’s Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC) for the NCP100/NCP105 Ractis lists a pair of “Stay, Back Door” assemblies—gas‑charged lift supports—for the rear hatch. Aftermarket catalogues such as Stabilus (Lift‑O‑Mat) and Monroe/StrongArm also specify tailgate lift supports for 2005–2010 Ractis. The bonnet on this model typically uses a manual prop rod rather than gas struts from factory.

On a 2008 Ractis, the gas struts do the hard yakka of lifting and holding the hatch safely while loading the boot. They counterbalance the tailgate’s weight, slow the final part of the lift and stop the hatch from crashing down. When they’re healthy, the hatch pops up smoothly, stays put on an angle or fully open, and closes without a fight. As they age, internal seals wear and the nitrogen charge drops, especially noticeable on cold mornings—classic signs it’s time to replace them.

There’s no fixed service interval, but most hatch struts last 5–10 years depending on climate and usage. As part of regular servicing, it’s smart to check for oil weeping at the shaft seal, listen for hissing, and test holding force by opening the hatch and seeing if it creeps down. If any doubt, replace both sides together to keep lift and damping even.

Replacement is a straightforward DIY for many owners: support the hatch with a prop or a mate, pop off the retaining clips, swap one strut at a time, and clip the new units onto the existing ball studs. Match length (centre‑to‑centre), end fittings, and rated force to the original spec. Most Ractis units mount rod‑end down to keep the internal seal lubricated—installing them the right way round helps longevity. Avoid greasing the chrome shafts, just keep them clean. And don’t try to re‑gas or open a strut—they’re sealed and under pressure, so replacement is the go.

For workshops, a quick hatch drop test and visual once‑over at each service is an easy value‑add. If the hatch won’t hold at half‑open, struggles to rise on its own, or needs a shoulder in a southerly, the struts are due. Fresh gas struts restore safety, make daily use easier, and protect hinges and latch mechanisms from shock loads.

• Tell‑tale signs: slow lift in cold weather, hatch won’t stay up, oily residue on strut, knocking or hissing.
• Best practice: replace in pairs, support the hatch during work, and torque hardware to manufacturer guidance.

Does the 2008 Toyota Ractis have gas struts on the bonnet?

No. The bonnet is supported by a manual prop rod from factory. The gas struts are fitted to the rear hatch (tailgate) only. If bonnet struts are present, they’re likely aftermarket add‑ons rather than OEM.

How do you know when the Ractis hatch struts need replacing?

Common clues are the hatch drifting down, needing a push to rise, moving very slowly in cold weather, or showing oil weep at the shaft. If it won’t hold at half‑open or full height, it’s time for new struts—always replace both sides together.

Can Ractis gas struts be re‑gassed, or should they just be replaced?

They’re sealed, high‑pressure units, so re‑gassing isn’t recommended. Replacement with new, correctly rated struts is the safe, cost‑effective fix, and typically a quick job with basic tools.