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Parts for your 2008 Nissan Primera-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
2008 Nissan Primera engine mount — purpose, tips and when to replace
Technical sources including the Nissan Primera P12 Factory Service Manual (Engine: Engine Mounting/Insulators), the Nissan FAST electronic parts catalogue, and workshop data services such as Autodata all show the Primera uses multiple engine mounts (right/engine side, left/transmission side, front and rear torque mounts). While European production ended around 2007, vehicles first registered in 2008 exist on the same P12 platform, so engine mounts are absolutely relevant to a 2008 Nissan Primera.
On the 2008 Nissan Primera, the engine mounts do the quiet, unglamorous work of holding the powertrain in place while soaking up vibration. By isolating engine shake from the body, they keep the cabin calm, protect exhaust and driveshaft alignments, and make gear shifts feel tidy. The right-hand mount typically carries much of the weight, the left-hand mount supports the transmission, and the front/rear “torque” mounts control the fore–aft rock when taking off or lifting off. Many are hydraulic, using fluid inside to better damp vibrations at idle and low revs.
Over time the rubber can harden or tear, and hydraulic mounts can weep fluid. That’s when the Primera starts to feel a bit rough around the edges—idle buzz through the steering wheel, a thud on take‑off, or more engine movement when blipping the throttle with the bonnet up. Diesels and autos tend to stress mounts a little more, spirited driving and harsh roads don’t help either.
- Common signs it’s time: cabin vibration at idle, clunking on gear changes or over bumps, visible cracks or collapsed rubber, leaked fluid from a mount, and excessive engine movement.
- Inspection tip: during routine services (every 10,000–15,000 km), do a quick visual check. Look for perished rubber, torn sleeves, or contact between metal parts. A pry‑bar test can reveal excessive play.
When replacing, support the engine properly with an engine support bar or jack and block. Fit mounts loosely, then tighten to spec at normal ride height so the rubber isn’t preloaded. Replace any single‑use (stretch) bolts if the manual calls for it. After fitting, make sure there’s clearance around the exhaust, radiator hoses and the shifter cables, then road‑test for noise and vibration. Quality OEM or reputable aftermarket mounts usually give the best result, mixing new and very old mounts can leave some harshness, so consider replacing in pairs if the budget allows.
There’s no fixed replacement interval—many Primera mounts last 120,000–200,000 km—but once worn they can accelerate wear on the exhaust flex, CV joints and even cause misdiagnosis of “engine misfire” due to shake. Keep an ear out, and sort them before they turn a simple service into a bigger bill.
Popular questions about 2008 Nissan Primera engine mounts
How long do Primera engine mounts usually last?
In typical Aussie and Kiwi conditions, expect 8–15 years or roughly 120,000–200,000 km. Short‑trip urban use, high heat, oil leaks onto the rubber, and diesel torque can shorten that. If the car idles rough in gear or clunks on take‑off, have them checked sooner rather than later.
Can worn mounts cause vibration and knocking?
Yes. A tired mount lets the engine move more than it should, which you’ll feel as vibration at idle (especially with the A/C on) and sometimes a thud when shifting or loading the driveline. Rule out ignition or injector issues first, but if the engine’s healthy and it still shakes, the mounts are prime suspects.
Do you need a wheel alignment after replacing engine mounts?
Usually no. But if the front subframe is loosened or dropped to access the rear mount, a wheel alignment is a smart move. Marking subframe positions helps, yet a post‑job alignment ensures steering feel and tyre wear stay spot on.