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Parts for your 2008 Holden Astra-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob 300A (Contacts Rated 300A @ 12V) - 61045BL
2008 Holden Astra engine-mount
Engine-mounts are absolutely used on the 2008 Holden Astra (AH series). Technical sources such as the Holden Astra AH (2004–2009) Workshop Manual, GM TIS service information, and the GM Global EPC/parts catalogue specify multiple mounts on this model, including a right-hand engine mount, a left-hand transaxle mount, and front/rear torque mounts. Those references make it clear the Astra’s powertrain is supported and isolated by dedicated engine-mounts, with some variants using hydraulic (fluid-filled) designs to cut noise, vibration and harshness.
On the Astra, the engine-mount’s main job is to hold the engine and gearbox in the correct position under the bonnet while soaking up vibration and managing torque reaction under acceleration, deceleration and gearchanges. Good mounts keep the cabin calm, protect driveshafts and exhaust flex joints from undue strain, and help shifter cables and hoses stay happy over the long haul. When the rubber or hydraulic elements age, the car can feel rough at idle, thump on take-off, or let the engine rock about more than it should.
As part of routine servicing, it’s smart to cast an eye over the mounts every 20,000–30,000 kilometres, or sooner if there are tell-tale vibes. Replacement intervals vary with driving and climate, but many Astras will need at least one mount between 120,000 and 200,000 kilometres. If one has clearly failed, check the others too—when one lets go, the rest often aren’t far behind.
- Common symptoms: excess vibration at idle, clunks when shifting or accelerating, visible engine movement, knocking under load, and fluid seeping from a hydraulic mount.
- Inspection tips: look for collapsed rubber, cracked bushings in the lower “dog-bone” torque mount, and perished isolators at the upper right-hand mount.
- Replacement advice: support the engine with a jack and timber block, do one mount at a time, loosely fit all fasteners, settle the engine, then torque to the factory spec.
- Use quality OEM or reputable aftermarket mounts, replace any single‑use (stretch) bolts specified by GM.
Labour time varies: the upper right-hand mount is commonly 1–2 hours, while the lower torque/rear mounts can take longer. If the Astra’s starting to buzz like a lawnmower or thud on take-off, fresh engine-mounts will bring it back to its tidy, well-mannered self.
How many engine-mounts does a 2008 Holden Astra have?
Most AH Astras run four mounting points: a right-hand engine mount, a left-hand transmission mount, plus front and rear torque mounts (the lower “dog-bone” and a rear mount on the subframe). Exact hardware can vary a touch by engine and transmission, but that layout is typical for 1.8 petrol, 2.0 turbo and 1.9 diesel models.
What are the usual signs the Astra’s engine-mounts need replacing?
Tell-tales include a shake through the seats or steering wheel at idle, clunks when selecting drive or changing gears, and the engine visibly rocking when the throttle is blipped. You might also hear knocks over bumps, feel more vibration with the A/C on, or spot oil weeping from a hydraulic mount.
Is it safe to keep driving with a worn engine-mount?
It’ll usually still drive, but it’s not ideal. Excess movement can stress the exhaust flex, CV joints, hoses and shifter cables, and it can accelerate wear in the other mounts. If the car’s knocking or buzzing noticeably, organise a replacement sooner rather than later to avoid collateral damage.