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Parts for your 2008 Ford Ranger-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
2008 Ford Ranger engine mount — what it does and when to replace it
Yes, the 2008 Ford Ranger is fitted with engine mounts. This isn’t a “not applicable” part. Technical sources including the Ford Workshop Manual (2008 Ranger, Section 303-01 – Engine), which covers “engine support insulators” and their torque procedures, the Ford Electronic Parts Catalogue listing engine mount insulators for the 2008 model range, and the PJ/PK Ranger/Mazda BT-50 workshop material for 2006–2011 that details engine mount removal and installation, all confirm their use on this vehicle.
The engine mount on a 2008 Ranger secures the engine to the chassis while isolating vibration and noise. It keeps the engine at the right height and angle so driveline geometry, exhaust clearances and fan/radiator alignment stay spot-on. Depending on engine variant, mounts may be conventional rubber or hydraulic-type insulators, either way, they cop a hard life in Aussie and Kiwi conditions with towing, corrugations and heat cycling.
There’s no fixed replacement interval, it’s condition-based. A good rule is to inspect at every service or at least each 20,000 km. Look for split or delaminated rubber, collapsed height, shiny metal-to-metal witness marks, perished bushes, or oil contamination that softens rubber. If one side has failed, it’s smart to replace mounts as a pair and check the transmission mount at the same time.
- Common signs of worn mounts:
- More vibration through the cabin at idle or with the A/C on
- Thud/clunk on take-off, gear changes or over bumps
- Excessive engine rock when blipping the throttle
- Fan shroud or exhaust contacting under load
Replacement pointers: support the engine from underneath with a block on the sump or use an engine support bar, loosen and remove mount hardware, lift slightly to free the insulator, fit the new mount, then torque fasteners to workshop spec with the engine settled at ride height. Re-check torque after the first few hundred kilometres. Follow the Ford WSM procedures to the letter, and use new fasteners where specified.
- Make mounts last longer:
- Fix oil leaks promptly so rubber isn’t soaked
- Avoid harsh clutch dumps and wheel-hop
- After off-road trips or heavy towing, do a quick visual under the bonnet
Choosing parts? OE or quality aftermarket mounts matched to the exact engine and driveline (2WD/4WD, petrol/diesel) will deliver the best fit and NVH control.
Popular questions about 2008 Ford Ranger engine mounts
How long do engine mounts typically last on a 2008 Ranger?
Many last 120,000–200,000 km, but heavy towing, diesel vibration, heat and road conditions can shorten that. Regular checks during servicing will catch early deterioration before it causes secondary damage.
Is it safe to drive with a failed engine mount?
Short trips might be possible, but it’s not ideal. A failed mount can stress exhaust joints, fan shrouds and driveline components, and the extra vibration is unpleasant. If there’s clunking or the engine is visibly shifting, get it sorted promptly.
How long does replacement take?
Typically 1–3 hours per mount depending on engine and access, plus extra time if fasteners are corroded or if the transmission mount is done at the same visit.