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Parts for your 2007 Toyota Ractis-Suspension bushes

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REAR BEAM BUSH - BU226

REAR BEAM BUSH - BU226

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$100
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REAR BEAM BUSH - BU2086
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REAR BEAM BUSH - BU2086

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$53
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SWAY BAR MOUNT BUSH - BU282

SWAY BAR MOUNT BUSH - BU282

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$39
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Kelpro Sway Bar Link Bush - 23519

Kelpro Sway Bar Link Bush - 23519

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$36
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MaxiTrac Bow Shackle, 4,750kg

MaxiTrac Bow Shackle, 4,750kg

$46
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MaxiTrac Bow Shackle,  3,250kg 2 Pack

MaxiTrac Bow Shackle, 3,250kg 2 Pack

$40
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2007 Toyota Ractis suspension bushes — what they do and when to replace them

Based on Toyota’s technical literature for the NCP100/NCP105 platform (Ractis, 2005–2010), the 2007 Toyota Ractis absolutely uses suspension bushes. The Toyota New Car Features for the Yaris/Ractis platform specifies a MacPherson strut front end and a torsion-beam rear, both of which rely on rubber bushes for location and vibration isolation. Toyota’s Electronic Parts Catalogue for Ractis lists front lower control arm bushes, rear axle beam bushes, stabiliser bar (anti-roll bar) bushes and strut top mounts — all bush components by design. So yes, suspension bushes are relevant and fitted on this vehicle.

On a 2007 Toyota Ractis, suspension bushes are the quiet achievers. These rubber (or sometimes polyurethane) sleeves sit between metal components to keep everything aligned while soaking up vibration and road shock. Up front, the lower control arm bushes help set geometry for steering feel and tyre contact. At the back, the torsion-beam bushes control the beam’s movement, keeping the car settled over bumps. Stabiliser bar bushes and links curb body roll, and the strut top mounts isolate noise while allowing the strut to pivot for steering.

Over time, heat, oil contamination and the constant flex of Kiwi and Aussie roads harden or crack the bushes. The tell-tales are pretty familiar: thuds over speed humps, wandering or vague steering, uneven tyre wear, a shimmy under braking, or a squeak when turning slowly. If any of that sounds familiar on a 2007 Toyota Ractis, it’s time for an inspection.

Servicing advice for Ractis suspension bushes:

  • Inspect at every service or 10,000–15,000 km, looking for splits, oil-soaked rubber, or excessive movement with a pry bar.
  • Replace in pairs across an axle for consistent handling, and book a wheel alignment after front or rear bush work.
  • Torque control arm and beam bolts at normal ride height so the bushes aren’t preloaded at full droop.
  • Choose quality OEM-style rubber for comfort, or polyurethane for a firmer, more direct feel (expect a bit more noise/harshness).
  • If the bush is integral to the arm and heavily worn, a complete arm assembly can be cost-effective and quicker to fit.

A press and suitable mandrels are usually needed for the larger bushes (front lower arm and rear beam). Stabiliser bar bushes and drop links are generally straightforward. Done right, fresh bushes restore that tidy, planted feel and protect your tyres — a smart bit of preventative maintenance on any 2007 Toyota Ractis suspension bushes service plan.

How long do suspension bushes last on a 2007 Toyota Ractis?

There’s no fixed interval, as life depends on driving conditions, kilometres and exposure to heat or oil. Many Ractis owners see 120,000–180,000 km from the major bushes, while stabiliser bar bushes can soften earlier. If there’s clunking, wandering or uneven tyre wear, get them checked sooner rather than later.

Regular inspections during routine servicing will catch early cracking or movement before it affects handling or tyres.

Do I need an alignment after replacing Ractis suspension bushes?

Yes, book a proper four-wheel alignment after replacing front control arm bushes or any component that can shift geometry. Even rear beam bush changes can influence thrust angle. Aligning at the end of the job ensures straight tracking and even tyre wear.

Ask the shop to tighten all pivot bolts at normal ride height before aligning, so the bushes aren’t preloaded.

Rubber vs polyurethane bushes — what suits a daily-driver Ractis?

For most daily driving in Australia and New Zealand, quality rubber (OEM-style) keeps noise and vibration low while restoring factory feel. Polyurethane sharpens response and can last longer, but it may add a touch more harshness and occasional squeak if not greased properly.

If comfort is the priority, stick with rubber. If a firmer, more connected feel is wanted, polyurethane is a fair upgrade.