Parts for your 2007 Subaru Forester-Wheel studs nuts

2007 Subaru Forester wheel studs and nuts

Based on Subaru’s 2007 Forester Factory Service Manual and the Subaru genuine parts catalogue, this model runs a 5-stud hub with pressed-in wheel studs and separate lug (wheel) nuts, not wheel bolts. The hardware is M12 × 1.25 fine-thread studs with 60° conical-seat nuts on a 5×100 PCD hub, so wheel studs and nuts are absolutely relevant to the 2007 Subaru Forester.

On the 2007 Forester, the wheel studs and nuts do the simple but critical job of clamping the wheel firmly to the hub. The studs are pressed into the hub from the rear, and the nuts pull the wheel up square on the hub face. Subaru’s fine M12 × 1.25 thread gives a secure clamp when torqued correctly, and the 60° taper centres the wheel. Correct torque is key: 120 N·m (about 88 ft·lbf) on clean, dry threads and seats. No oil or anti-seize on the studs or nut seats, as lubrication can lead to over‑torque and stretched studs.

In Aussie and Kiwi conditions—coastal air, road grime, and plenty of rattle‑gun use—these parts cop a hiding. Over‑torquing with an impact gun is the number one killer, stretching studs and chewing the nut seats. As part of routine servicing or any tyre rotation, it’s smart to:

• Inspect studs and nuts for cross‑threading, corrosion, or stretched/necked threads.
• Clean the hub face and wheel mounting face to remove rust and paint flake.
• Tighten nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench to 120 N·m, then re‑check after 50–100 km.
• Replace any nut with a damaged taper or burred hex, replace suspect studs immediately.

If a stud snaps or threads are cactus, replacement is straightforward but can be fiddly. The brake caliper and rotor usually need to come off, the broken stud is knocked out from the rear, and a new stud is pulled in square using a stack of washers and a new nut. On some rear hubs, clearance may require loosening the hub or backing plate. Always use quality studs and nuts to suit the 60° taper, mixing seat styles can cause wheel wobble or looseness. Given the fine thread pitch, start each nut by hand to avoid cross‑threading, especially on alloy wheels.

Kept tidy and torqued right, the Forester’s studs and nuts will deliver years of drama‑free wheel clamping, better tyre wear, and safer, quieter motoring.

Popular questions about 2007 Subaru Forester wheel studs and nuts

What’s the correct wheel nut torque for a 2007 Subaru Forester?

The recommended torque is 120 N·m (about 88 ft·lbf) on clean, dry threads and seats. Tighten in a star pattern and re‑check after 50–100 km, especially after tyre rotations or new wheels. Avoid anti‑seize or lubricants on the studs or nut seats.

What thread size are the wheel studs and nuts on a 2007 Forester?

They use M12 × 1.25 fine threads with a 60° conical seat on a 5×100 PCD hub. Most factory nuts are closed‑end with a 19 mm hex. Always match the seat type to the wheel, mixing mag/flat seats with conical seats can cause poor clamping.

How do you replace a broken wheel stud on a 2007 Forester?

Remove the wheel, caliper and rotor, then knock the broken stud out from the rear of the hub. Feed the new stud in from behind and draw it into place using a stack of washers and a new lug nut, tightening until the stud head seats fully. On some rear hubs, extra clearance or partial hub removal may be needed. Replace the affected nut, torque all nuts to 120 N·m, and re‑check after a short drive.