Parts for your 2007 Mitsubishi Lancer-Rack boots

2007 Mitsubishi Lancer rack boots — what they do and when to replace them

Based on the Mitsubishi Motors Lancer Workshop Manual (Steering – Rack and Pinion) and the Mitsubishi ASA electronic parts catalogue, the 2007 Mitsubishi Lancer is fitted with steering rack boots (also called rack bellows or gaiters). These sources list the bellows as serviceable components on both hydraulic-assist (late CH/CS) and electric power steering racks (early CJ), so rack boots are absolutely relevant to this model year.

On a 2007 Lancer, rack boots seal the ends of the steering rack and cover the inner tie rods. Their job is to keep grit, water and road grime out of the rack gears and seals, and to hold the grease that lets the inner joints move smoothly. Whether the car runs hydraulic power steering or electric assist, the boots are the first line of defence against wear. If the car is hydraulic, fluid weeping into a boot can also tip off a failing inner rack seal.

For day-to-day servicing, a quick look at the boots every 10,000–15,000 km is smart. They should be intact, pliable and clamped tightly. Watch for splits, perishing, loose or missing clamps, and any grease flung around the subframe. On hydraulic cars, fluid inside the boot or streaks of ATF on the boot usually means the rack itself needs attention, not just a new boot.

Replacement is straightforward in the right hands. It’s good practice to replace boots in pairs, use proper stainless ear clamps (not cable ties), and keep the inner joint and rack shaft clean as the new boot slides on. Solvents and mismatched clamps can damage fresh rubber, so stick with quality parts. Once the tie rod is refitted, a wheel alignment is recommended because toe can shift even if the technician counted threads. If there’s any notchiness in the inner joint or play at the wheel, sort that at the same time—boots won’t fix worn hardware.

Owners who drive on gravel, through road works or in wet, muddy conditions should check more often—NZ winters and Aussie back roads can be hard on rubber. Catching a cracked boot early is cheap insurance, left torn, contamination chews out the rack and inner joints, turning a simple boot job into a full rack replacement.

• Signs it’s time: torn rubber, oil or grease on the boot, grinding or stiff steering, or a fresh WOF/RWC note about steering gaiters.
• Tip: if a boot fills with fluid, plan for rack repair or replacement rather than just a boot swap.

Popular questions

How can someone tell their 2007 Lancer’s rack boots are failing?
They’ll often spot small splits in the folds, grease sprayed on the control arm or subframe, or notice the boot has gone hard and brittle. On hydraulic racks, a wet, oily boot or drips of ATF near the rack ends suggest an internal seal issue. During a WOF/RWC, inspectors will flag perished or torn gaiters.

Is it okay to keep driving with a torn rack boot?
It’ll drive, but it’s risky. A torn boot lets in water and grit that quickly wear the inner tie rod and rack teeth. That can lead to sloppy steering, noise and, on hydraulic systems, rack failure. Replacing the boot early is inexpensive compared with a rack overhaul.

Do both rack boots need changing, and will it need an alignment?
Changing both sides is sensible to keep rubber age consistent. After any work that disturbs the tie rod, a wheel alignment is recommended. Even careful reassembly can nudge toe out of spec, and proper alignment protects tyre life and steering feel.