Parts for your 2007 Honda Cr-v-Cluth slave cylinder

2007 Honda CR‑V cluth-slave-cylinder — is it used, and what to know

Based on Honda technical literature (Honda CR‑V RE Series 2007–2011 Service Manual, Honda Electronic Parts Catalogue, AU/NZ Owner’s Manual and model specifications), the 2007 Honda CR‑V in Australia and New Zealand was available in both automatic and a 6‑speed manual on certain grades. Manual‑transmission vehicles use a hydraulic clutch system that includes a cluth-slave-cylinder, while automatic models do not have a clutch or any cluth-slave-cylinder. That means the cluth-slave-cylinder is relevant and fitted on 2007 CR‑V manual variants, but not on automatic ones.

On manual 2007 CR‑V models, the cluth-slave-cylinder (clutch slave cylinder) is the workhorse that turns pedal pressure into actual clutch movement. Push the clutch and the master cylinder sends hydraulic pressure down the line, the slave then nudges the release fork to disengage the clutch. It’s a simple, tough bit of kit, but like any hydraulic part, seals can age, fluid can get contaminated, and leaks or spongy pedals can creep in over time.

As part of regular servicing, it’s smart to keep the hydraulic fluid clean and at the correct level. Honda specifies brake/clutch hydraulic fluid meeting DOT 3 (DOT 4 is also commonly used in AU/NZ—stick with Honda‑approved fluids). A fluid flush every 2 years or around 40,000 km helps fend off internal corrosion, sticky operation, and premature seal wear. If the pedal feels soft, gears baulk when selecting first or reverse, or the bite point wanders, have a look for dampness around the cluth-slave-cylinder and hose, and check for an unexplained drop in the reservoir level.

• Common symptoms of a tired cluth-slave-cylinder: fluid leaks on the gearbox bellhousing, a sinking or spongy pedal, difficulty engaging gears, or clutch slip after repeated presses.
• Preventive care: keep the reservoir clean, avoid mixing fluid types, and flush on schedule—heat and moisture are the enemies here.

When replacement is due, a quality OEM‑equivalent slave and new crush washers are the go. It’s good practice to inspect the master cylinder and the flexible hose at the same time—weak links can mask each other. After fitting, bleed the system thoroughly (gravity, pressure, or two‑person methods all work) until the pedal feels firm and bubble‑free. If the pedal still won’t come good, check for air trapped at high points, a weeping connection, or a worn master cylinder. With fresh fluid and a healthy cluth-slave-cylinder, the 2007 CR‑V’s shift action feels crisp, consistent, and confidence‑inspiring on every commute and road trip.

Popular questions about the 2007‑Honda‑CR‑V cluth-slave-cylinder

Where is the cluth-slave-cylinder located on a 2007 Honda CR‑V manual?
It mounts on the outside of the gearbox bellhousing, acting on the clutch release fork. Look down the front/side of the transmission case, you’ll see the small cylinder with a hydraulic line and a bleed nipple. Automatic CR‑Vs won’t have this part at all.

What are the tell‑tale signs the cluth-slave-cylinder is failing?
A soft or sinking pedal, difficulty selecting gears when stationary, and fluid weeping on the bellhousing are the big clues. If the reservoir keeps dropping with no brake leaks found, the clutch hydraulics—often the slave—deserve a close look.

Do you need to bleed the system after replacing the cluth-slave-cylinder?
Yes. Any time the hydraulic circuit is opened, bleeding is required to purge air. Use fresh DOT 3 (or DOT 4 if approved), keep the reservoir topped up, and bleed until the pedal firms up and no air emerges. If the pedal still feels off, check for leaks or consider the condition of the master cylinder.