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Parts for your 2007 Holden Captiva 7-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043
2007 Holden Captiva 7 engine-mount
Yes, the 2007 Holden Captiva 7 definitely uses engine mounts. This is supported by the Holden CG Captiva Workshop/Service Manual (GM Service Information) which includes procedures for engine mount inspection and replacement, and by the GM/ACDelco Electronic Parts Catalogue listing multiple mounts for the CG series (right-hand engine mount/insulator, left transmission mount, and a lower torque rod). Trade databases used in Australia and New Zealand, such as Autodata and HaynesPro, also document torque specs and removal/refit steps for these mounts on the 3.2 V6 petrol and 2.0 diesel variants.
On the Captiva 7, the engine mounts secure the engine and transaxle to the subframe, soak up vibration, and control drivetrain movement under load. Most are rubber or hydraulic-composite mounts, with a lower torque rod (dogbone) to manage fore–aft twist. Keeping them healthy makes the cabin quieter, protects driveshafts and exhaust joints, and keeps gear changes smooth.
Typical signs a Captiva 7 needs mounts are: a shake at idle in Drive, a thump on take-off or when shifting, visible sagging or cracks in the mount rubber, or oily residue from a leaking hydraulic mount. If those show up, it’s time for a closer look under the bonnet.
- Inspection tips: look for collapsed rubber, fluid seepage on hydraulic mounts, and loose or shiny (fretted) fasteners. Check the lower torque rod bush for tearing.
- Replacement pointers: support the engine with a hoist or a jack and timber block, swap one mount at a time, and torque fasteners at normal ride height. Where GM specifies single‑use (stretch) bolts, replace them.
- Workshop cautions: some Captiva 7 jobs involve loosening the front subframe, use alignment dowels and consider a wheel alignment afterwards. Keep an eye on exhaust flex, earth straps, and hoses so nothing is strained.
There’s no fixed service interval, but in Aussie and Kiwi conditions many owners see mount wear between roughly 100,000–180,000 km, sooner if the vehicle tows or spends a lot of time in stop–start traffic. Quality OE-spec parts pay off in refinement. After replacement, a short road test in Drive at idle, light throttle take‑offs, and reverse engagement checks will confirm the shake and clunk are gone.
Popular questions about 2007 Holden Captiva 7 engine-mount
How long do engine mounts last on a Captiva 7?
Service history, driving style, and heat matter. Many last beyond 120,000 km, but towing, rough roads, and frequent stop–start can shorten their life. Vibration at idle and clunks on take‑off are common early warnings.
Can worn mounts cause rough idle or harsh shifts?
They can amplify normal engine pulses into the cabin and let the drivetrain move more than it should, which can feel like a rough idle or a thud on gear engagement. Fixing mounts often restores the smooth feel you expect.
Do I need to change all the mounts at once?
Not always. Many techs start with the worst one (often the right-hand hydraulic mount or the lower torque rod) and re-evaluate. If multiple mounts are aged or cracked, doing them together can save labour and keep NVH balanced.