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Parts for your 2006 Toyota Ractis-Rack boots

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Silverline S/Rack Boot Tool - SRB0002PSTOOL
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Silverline S/Rack Boot Tool - SRB0002PSTOOL

$5
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2006 Toyota Ractis rack boots — what they do and when to replace them

Rack boots are absolutely used on the 2006 Toyota Ractis. The Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC) for Ractis NCP100/NCP105 lists a “Boot, Steering Gear” for the rack-and-pinion assembly, and the Toyota Repair Manual includes a specific procedure for replacing the rack boot on this model. Major aftermarket catalogues also offer steering rack boots (gaiters) for 2005–2010 Ractis, confirming the part’s relevance.

On a 2006 Ractis—whether it runs hydraulic or electric power steering—the rack boots are the concertina-style rubber bellows at each end of the steering rack. Their job is to keep dust, water, road grime, and grit away from the rack bar and inner tie rods, and to retain the correct grease. Without a healthy boot, abrasive muck sneaks in, grease washes out, and the inner joints and rack teeth can chew themselves out early. In Aussie heat and Kiwi coastal climates, the rubber can harden and crack sooner, so they’re very much a service item.

Best practice is to have the boots inspected at every service or at least each 10,000–15,000 kilometres. If there’s perishing, splits, oil or grease spray on the boot, or a missing clamp, it’s time to replace. Many workshops will replace rack boots in pairs to keep wear and protection even across the rack.

  • Signs a rack boot needs attention:
    • Cracked, torn, or oily boot material
    • Gritty or notchy steering feel
    • Clicking/knocking over bumps that points to inner tie rod wear
    • WOF/Warrant or rego inspection failure for a damaged gaiter

When fitting new boots to a Ractis, quality matters—genuine Toyota or a reputable aftermarket boot that matches the rack diameter and stroke length. The boot should slide on without forcing, sit squarely in the rack and tie rod grooves, and clamp with proper ear clamps, not cable ties. Ensure the small vent path isn’t blocked so the boot can breathe as the rack moves.

Because the outer tie rod end is usually removed to slip the new boot on, a wheel alignment is recommended afterwards—even if the threads were marked. It’s a quick job, typically 30–60 minutes a side for an experienced tech, and far cheaper than a steering rack down the line. For Ractis drivers doing lots of coastal or gravel kilometres, earlier checks are smart—fresh boots and clean grease keep the steering sweet and the tyres wearing nicely.

Popular questions

Q: What are the symptoms of bad rack boots on a 2006 Toyota Ractis?

A: Look for visible splits or oil/grease flung onto the subframe, a rubber boot that’s gone hard and cracked, or dampness from power steering fluid on hydraulic models. Over time, grit ingress can cause a notchy steering feel or inner tie rod play that shows up as clunks over bumps. A failed WOF for a damaged steering gaiter is also common.

A: If a boot is damaged, the inner tie rod and rack can wear quickly. That can lead to poor tyre wear and, in worst cases, an expensive rack replacement—so don’t leave it.

Q: How often should rack boots be replaced on a Ractis?

A: There’s no fixed kilometre interval—boots are replaced on condition. Inspect them at every service. In Australian heat and New Zealand coastal areas, many see cracking around the 8–12 year mark, sooner if exposed to UV, oil, or off‑seal roads. Replace at the first sign of perishing, tears, or loose clamps.

A: If one side has failed due to age, doing both sides together helps keep protection consistent and can save on alignment time.

Q: Do you need a wheel alignment after replacing rack boots?

A: Yes, it’s recommended. To fit new boots the outer tie rod end is usually removed from the knuckle, even with careful marking the toe setting can shift. A quick alignment brings the Ractis back to spec, protects tyres, and ensures it tracks straight.

A: If the inner tie rods were also checked or adjusted, an alignment becomes essential rather than optional.