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Parts for your 2006 Toyota Kluger-Strut mounts

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SAS Strut Mount - MT220RB

SAS Strut Mount - MT220RB

$308
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SAS Strut Mount - MT961

SAS Strut Mount - MT961

$383
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2006 Toyota Kluger strut mounts: purpose, service tips and when to replace

Strut mounts are absolutely used on the 2006 Toyota Kluger. Technical sources including the Toyota Kluger/Highlander XU20 Repair Manual, Toyota New Car Features (NCF) for the Kluger/Highlander platform, and Toyota’s Electronic Parts Catalogue list MacPherson struts at the front and rear, which rely on upper strut mounts (front mounts incorporate a bearing for steering). Independent service literature covering 2001–2007 Highlander/Kluger models also details the front strut top mount and bearing assembly, confirming their relevance to this vehicle.

On a 2006 Toyota Kluger, the strut mount sits at the top of the strut assembly and bolts to the body. Up front it includes a bearing so the strut and spring can swivel smoothly with the steering. The mount’s rubber insulator isolates road harshness and helps control noise, vibration and harshness (NVH). Over time, heat, age and Aussie/Kiwi road conditions can harden or crack the rubber, and bearings can dry out or bind, leading to clunks over bumps, vague turn‑in, or a notchy steering feel.

For routine servicing, a quick visual and hands‑on check of the 2006toyotakluger strutmounts goes a long way. Look for perished rubber, torn insulators, cracked housings, or signs the centre stud is sitting off‑centre. During a bounce test, listen for dull thuds from the towers. On the road, note any steering memory, creaks when turning at parking speeds, or shimmy over corrugations.

When replacing struts or springs, it’s smart practice to renew the strut mounts at the same time, especially past 150,000–200,000 km or if there’s any noise. Doing them in axle pairs keeps handling even left to right. Always inspect and replace the dust boot and bump stop together, they protect the strut shaft and keep grit out of the bearing. Front mounts include a bearing, if the design separates the insulator and bearing, replace both if there’s any roughness.

Workshop tips: use a quality spring compressor and mark spring orientation before disassembly. Torque the top nut to spec while supporting the spring, and only final‑torque control arm and strut‑to‑knuckle bolts at normal ride height to avoid bush pre‑load. After refitting, a four‑wheel alignment is essential to dial in camber and toe and protect tyre wear. For peace of mind and comfort, periodic inspections every 40,000–60,000 km are a good fit for local conditions, with earlier attention for vehicles that tow, see rural roads, or carry loads.

  • Common symptoms: clunks over bumps, steering notchiness, wandering, uneven tyre wear, visible rubber cracking, or strut shaft “walking” at the tower.
  • Service add‑ons: replace dust boots and bump stops, check spring seats, and confirm torque and alignment.

Popular questions about 2006 Toyota Kluger strut mounts

What are the common symptoms of worn strut mounts on a 2006 Toyota Kluger?

A dull thud or clunk over potholes or speed humps.

A notchy or creaky feel when turning the steering at low speed.

Wandering or tramlining that makes the Kluger feel unsettled.

Uneven or accelerated tyre wear despite correct pressure.

Visible cracks, splits, or sagging in the rubber insulator.

Top strut nut sitting off‑centre in the tower opening.

Front end sits slightly lower or feels floaty over undulations.

Knock on cold mornings that eases as components warm up.

Steering “memory” where the wheel doesn’t self‑centre smoothly.

Grinding or graunching from the front due to a dry bearing.

Clunk on initial brake application or take‑off as the mount shifts.

Noises that get worse on full lock or when reversing over bumps.

Should strut mounts be replaced when fitting new struts on a 2006 Kluger?

Yes, it’s strongly recommended to replace the mounts with new struts.

The rubber insulator and bearing age at a similar rate to the strut.

Fresh mounts help the new struts deliver proper ride and steering feel.

It reduces the risk of rework if old mounts start knocking soon after.

Front mounts include a bearing, a worn bearing can bind or creak.

Rear mounts can crack and transmit noise if left original.

Doing them as axle pairs keeps handling balanced left to right.

Replace dust boots and bump stops at the same time for protection.

Use OE‑quality parts and torque everything to spec at ride height.

Finish with a four‑wheel alignment to protect tyre life.

Expect inspection every 40–60k km, replacement by 150–200k km is common.

Harsh roads, towing, and heavy loads can bring the timeline forward.