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Parts for your 2006 Toyota Highlander-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
2006 Toyota Highlander (Kluger) engine mount — what it does and how to look after it
Based on Toyota technical sources — the Toyota Highlander/Kluger 2004–2007 Repair Manual (Engine Mounting section), Toyota Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) for the 2006 U20/U30 series, and factory exploded diagrams — the 2006 Toyota Highlander (sold as Kluger in Australia and New Zealand) is fitted with multiple engine mounts. These include a front engine mounting insulator, a rear (torque) mount, and left/right side mounts with brackets. So yes, engine mounts are definitely used on this model.
The engine mounts on a 2006 Highlander/Kluger do a simple but crucial job: they hold the engine and transaxle securely to the subframe while soaking up vibration and movement. By isolating noise, vibration and harshness (NVH), they keep the cabin calm and protect other bits under the bonnet from shock loads when the driver accelerates, brakes, or hits rough roads. On this model there’s typically a hydraulic front mount to tame idle shake, a rear torque mount to control fore–aft rock, and side mounts that carry most of the weight.
They’re not a scheduled replacement item, but they do wear. Common signs an owner will notice include more vibration at idle in Drive, a thump or clunk when shifting or getting on/off the throttle, excessive engine movement when the bonnet is up and the engine is blipped, or visible cracking/tearing in the rubber. Hydraulic mounts can seep fluid, leaving a damp, oily patch on the mount body.
As part of regular servicing, it pays to give the mounts a once-over every 20,000–30,000 km, or sooner if there’s new vibration or drivetrain harshness. A quick visual check for perished rubber, collapsed mount height, or fluid leakage is easy. A pry-bar test (gently, with care) can reveal excessive play. Any engine or transmission oil leaks should be sorted promptly, as oil degrades rubber and will shorten mount life.
When replacement is due, quality matters. Genuine Toyota or a reputable aftermarket hydraulic mount will keep NVH in check better than a solid or “race” style option. Because the Highlander/Kluger uses a transverse layout, supporting the engine correctly is critical: use an engine support bar or a jack with a timber block under the sump, and only loosen one mount at a time. Final torque should be applied with the vehicle at normal ride height to avoid pre-loading the rubber, and always to the spec listed in the Toyota Repair Manual. If one mount has failed dramatically, checking (and often replacing) the opposite mount or the rear torque mount at the same time is smart practice to keep everything balanced.
- Typical lifespan: often 150,000–250,000 km depending on heat, load, and road conditions.
- Look out for: idle shake, shift clunks, fluid seepage from hydraulic mounts, and abnormal engine movement.
- Good practice: fix oil leaks, use quality parts, and torque fasteners to Toyota specs with the engine supported.
FAQs
How many engine mounts does a 2006 Toyota Highlander/Kluger have?
Most 2006 Highlander/Kluger variants use four mounting points: a right-hand (engine side) mount, a left-hand (transaxle) mount, a front hydraulic mount, and a rear torque mount. Exact part numbers vary by engine (2.4‑litre 2AZ‑FE or 3.3‑litre 3MZ‑FE) and drivetrain (2WD/AWD), which are detailed in the Toyota EPC.
What are the common symptoms of a failing engine mount?
Owners usually notice more vibration in the cabin at idle, a clunk on take-off or gear changes, or a shudder under load. Under the bonnet, the engine may rock more than normal, and a hydraulic mount might show fluid seepage. Any of these are a cue to inspect and replace as needed.
Can a home mechanic replace the engine mounts on this model?
Yes, with the right gear and care. An engine support bar or a safe way to support the engine is essential, along with a torque wrench and access to factory torque specs. If tools or space under the vehicle are limited, having a workshop handle it is the safer, quicker option.