Parts for your 2006 Toyota Blade-Strut mounts

2006 Toyota Blade strut mounts: purpose, care, and when to replace

Technical sources confirm the 2006 Toyota Blade is fitted with front MacPherson struts that use strut mounts. Toyota’s New Car Features (E150 platform: Auris/Blade), the Toyota Repair Manual (AZE154H/GRE156H front suspension section), and the Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue list the “Front Suspension Support Sub‑Assembly” (commonly called the strut mount) for these models. So yes—strutmounts are absolutely relevant on the 2006 Toyota Blade.

On this car, the front strut mounts do two big jobs: they isolate road vibration and noise from the body, and they let the strut rotate smoothly as the driver steers. Each mount houses a bearing for the steering pivot and a rubber insulator to cushion impacts. When they’re healthy, the Blade feels planted and quiet, when they’re tired, you’ll hear clunks, feel notchiness at the wheel, and may notice vague steering or feathered tyres.

Servicing-wise, it’s smart to treat strutmounts as a wear item. On a 2006 Blade—especially the V6 Blade Master, which carries more weight over the nose—expect inspection around 80,000–100,000 km, and replacement whenever front struts or springs are changed. If the rubber is cracked, the bearing feels gritty, or the centre stud sits off‑centre under the bonnet, they’re due.

• Replace in pairs left/right to keep steering feel even.
• Bundle in new upper spring seats, bearings, dust boots, and bump stops for a complete front-end refresh.
• Use a quality spring compressor and torque the top nut to spec—don’t rattle-gun it to death.
• Set the car on its wheels before final arm bushing torques, then book a wheel alignment straight after.

A fresh set of strut mounts restores that tidy Toyota steering and trims cabin harshness on coarse-chip roads common in Australia and New Zealand. For drivers who frequently tackle corrugations or potholes, shorter inspection intervals make sense. Genuine or high-quality OE-equivalent parts are worth it here, cheap mounts often squeak early or collapse under the Blade’s front axle load. Follow the torque specs in the Toyota Repair Manual and, if there’s any doubt about spring handling, leave the job to a pro—compressed springs can be unforgiving.

Popular questions about 2006 Toyota Blade strutmounts

How do you tell if the 2006 Toyota Blade’s strut mounts are worn?

There’s often a dull clunk or thud over speed bumps and potholes from the top of the strut tower.

The steering can feel notchy on centre or “memory steer” after turning.

You might hear a creak when turning the wheel at parking speeds.

Front tyre wear can show feathering or inner-edge scrub.

Under the bonnet, the top hat may sit off-centre or the rubber looks cracked or perished.

During a bounce test, the front end may top out with a knock.

Mechanics can feel roughness when rotating the mount bearing by hand.

Alignment may not hold well, needing frequent tweaks.

There can be a slight change in ride height at one corner.

Wet weather can make the noises more obvious as dirt washes out.

If the struts are leaking, the mounts are often tired too.

Any combination of these signs is reason to inspect and likely replace.

Should strut mounts be replaced with the shocks/struts on a 2006 Toyota Blade?

Yes, pairing new mounts with new struts is good practice on this platform.

The labour overlaps, so it saves time and money long term.

Old bearings on fresh struts can creak or bind, spoiling steering feel.

New mounts help your alignment hold steady.

They reduce NVH, making the cabin quieter on coarse-chip roads.

For the Blade Master V6, the extra front weight accelerates mount wear.

Use OE or reputable aftermarket mounts to avoid early failure.

Replace dust boots and bump stops while you’re there.

Torque the top nut and three tower nuts to spec only.

Finish with a proper wheel alignment.

A test drive over mixed roads will confirm everything is quiet.

Done right, the front end will feel tight, direct, and predictable.