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Parts for your 2006 Holden Captiva 5-Brake booster
DBA Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster Landcruiser 80 Series (2 Bolt Brake Master Cylinder) - DBAMV1003
DBA Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster Landcruiser 80 Series (4 Bolt Brake Master Cylinder) - DBAMV1004
DBA Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster Landcruiser 70 Series 8/1999 - 8/12 - DBAMV1002
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2006 Holden Captiva 5 Brake Booster: what it does and how to look after it
Technical sources including the Holden CG Captiva Workshop Manual (Brake System — Power Brake Unit), GM Global Service Information for the Opel Antara/Chevrolet Captiva platform, and the Bosch Automotive Handbook confirm that the 2006 Captiva 5 is built with a vacuum brake booster (often called a power brake unit). So yes — this model absolutely uses a booster.
On the 2006 Captiva 5, the brake booster sits on the firewall behind the brake master cylinder. Its job is to use engine vacuum to multiply the driver’s pedal effort, giving confident stops without needing a leg of steel. Petrol variants source vacuum from the intake manifold via a check valve and hose, diesel variants typically use a belt- or cam-driven vacuum pump to supply the booster.
What that means day to day is a lighter, more progressive brake pedal and shorter stopping distances for the same pedal force. If the booster or its check valve fails, the pedal will feel hard, and the car may take more road to pull up. A split diaphragm or loose hose can also cause a tell-tale hissing under the dash or a rough idle due to a vacuum leak.
There’s no scheduled replacement interval for the booster, but it should be inspected during regular servicing. Smart checks include:
- Engine-off/engine-on test: with the engine off, pump the pedal until it goes firm, hold light pressure and start the engine — the pedal should drop slightly as vacuum builds.
- Inspect the vacuum hose, grommet and one-way valve for cracks or oil-softening, replace if brittle or leaking.
- Look for brake fluid at the rear of the master cylinder — a leak can wick into the booster and damage its diaphragm.
Replacement is usually done when there’s a confirmed vacuum leak, a failed check valve, or contamination from brake fluid. Access is under the bonnet at the firewall, the master cylinder is unbolted from the booster, the vacuum line removed, and the booster released from the pedal and firewall. If hydraulic lines are disconnected, the system will need bleeding, some ABS systems may require a scan-tool assisted bleed. Always set the pushrod length to workshop spec, fit a new gasket, torque fasteners correctly, and perform a careful road test on a quiet road. Done right, a fresh booster brings the Captiva 5’s brake feel back to how it left the factory.
Popular questions about the 2006 Holden Captiva 5 brake booster
Does the 2006 Captiva 5 definitely have a brake booster?
Yes. The CG-series Captiva 5 uses a vacuum-assisted brake booster as part of its hydraulic brake system. Petrol engines draw vacuum from the intake manifold, while diesels rely on a dedicated vacuum pump to feed the booster through a one-way check valve.
What symptoms point to a failing brake booster on a Captiva 5?
A noticeably hard brake pedal, longer stopping distances, a hissing noise near the pedal area, or an engine that idles high or rough can indicate booster or vacuum-line trouble. If the pedal sinks with steady pressure, that’s more likely a master-cylinder issue than the booster itself.
Will the brakes need bleeding after replacing the booster?
If the master cylinder or brake lines are disconnected during the job, yes — the system will need bleeding, and some ABS setups may require scan-tool activation to purge air from the modulator. If the hydraulics remain sealed, bleeding may not be necessary, but always confirm pedal feel before driving.