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Parts for your 2005 Toyota Prius-Strut mounts

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SAS Strut Mount - MT220RB

SAS Strut Mount - MT220RB

$308
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SAS Strut Mount - MT961

SAS Strut Mount - MT961

$383
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Kelpro Strut Mount - 24245

Kelpro Strut Mount - 24245

$393
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SAS Strut Mount - MT230

SAS Strut Mount - MT230

$147
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Monroe Strut Mate Mounting Kit - 905957

Monroe Strut Mate Mounting Kit - 905957

$236
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Monroe Strut Mate Mounting Kit - MK296

Monroe Strut Mate Mounting Kit - MK296

$210
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2005 Toyota Prius strut mounts — what they do and when to replace them

Technical sources confirm the 2005 Toyota Prius (NHW20) uses front MacPherson struts that are bolted to the body via dedicated strut mounts (often called a strut top or strut support with bearing). Toyota’s New Car Features (NCF) and the Toyota Repair Manual for NHW20 describe a front MacPherson strut layout that requires an upper support/bearing assembly, while the rear uses separate shock absorbers and springs, so there are no rear strut mounts on this model. Toyota’s Electronic Parts Catalogue also lists a front “suspension support” for the NHW20, aligning with common aftermarket listings from reputable suspension manufacturers.

On a 2005 Prius, the front strut mounts do a few important jobs. They secure the top of the strut to the body, isolate noise and vibration so the cabin stays quiet, and house a bearing that lets the strut (and spring) rotate smoothly when steering. When they’re healthy, the steering feels light and consistent, the car tracks straight, and bumps are dealt with quietly. When they’re tired, every little corrugation or pothole can start a chorus of clunks and creaks.

Typical signs that the front strut mounts are due include:

  • Clunking or knocking over speed humps or rough roads
  • Notchy steering feel, “memory steer”, or slow return to centre
  • Creaks around the top of the strut towers near the cowl
  • Uneven tyre wear or wandering at highway speeds

As part of regular servicing, it’s smart to have the mounts inspected around the 80,000–120,000 kilometre mark, or sooner if the Prius lives on rough regional roads. Most workshops replace the mounts whenever fitting new front struts, because a fresh damper paired with a worn mount won’t feel right and can shorten the life of the new parts. Always do both fronts together.

Good practice when replacing strut mounts on an NHW20 includes:

  • Use quality OE or trusted aftermarket mounts with an integrated bearing
  • Renew the dust boot and jounce bumper while you’re there
  • Observe the mount’s orientation marks, torque the centre nut and the three tower nuts to spec
  • Book a wheel alignment straight after the job
  • Listen for any post-service noises and recheck fasteners if needed

DIY? A proper spring compressor and careful procedure are non‑negotiable. For most owners in Australia and New Zealand, having a qualified tech handle the swap is the safest, most cost‑effective way to keep the Prius steering sweet and riding quietly.

How long do front strut mounts last on a 2005 Toyota Prius?

In local conditions, many last 100,000–160,000 kilometres, but lifespan depends on road quality, driving style, and load. City cars on smooth tarmac can go longer, vehicles tackling gravel or patched suburban roads may need mounts sooner. If new struts are being fitted, doing the mounts at the same time is a sensible, low‑labour add‑on that helps the fresh dampers perform properly.

What are the common symptoms of worn Prius strut mounts?

Tell‑tales include clunks over bumps, a creak near the top of the strut towers, and steering that feels notchy or slow to self‑centre. Some owners notice a thud on driveway entries or uneven tyre wear creeping in. If noises worsen in wet weather or when turning at low speed, the bearing inside the mount may be binding.

Does the rear of a 2005 Prius have strut mounts?

No. The NHW20 Prius runs a torsion‑beam rear with separate shocks and springs, so there are no rear strut mounts. Only the front suspension uses MacPherson struts with strut mounts and an integrated bearing. If you’re chasing a rear knock, look to the rear shocks, bushings, or stabiliser links instead.