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Parts for your 2005 Honda Cr-v-Cluth slave cylinder
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Frenkit Clutch Slave Cylinder Kit D: 20.6 (Replaces K978S K1498S) - 520901
2005 Honda CR‑V clutch slave cylinder — what it does and when to replace it
Technical sources including the Honda CR‑V 2002–2006 Service Manual (Clutch section), Honda genuine parts catalogues listing the “Cylinder Assy., Clutch Slave” for 2005 CR‑V 5‑speed manual models, and common aftermarket catalogues used in workshops confirm this vehicle uses a hydraulic clutch with a master and an external clutch slave cylinder on manual variants. Automatic 2005 CR‑Vs don’t have or need a clutch slave cylinder because they use a torque converter, not a manual clutch. The following applies to the 5‑speed manual only.
On a 2005 Honda CR‑V, the clutch slave cylinder is the business end of the hydraulic system. When the driver presses the pedal, the master cylinder pressurises brake fluid, pushing the slave’s piston to move the release fork and disengage the clutch. It’s a small unit bolted to the gearbox housing, but it’s critical for smooth gear changes and a consistent pedal feel. This 2005 Honda CR‑V cluth-slave-cylinder (clutch slave cylinder) cops plenty of heat and road grime, so its internal seals can wear over time.
- Spongy or sinking clutch pedal
- Difficulty selecting gears when stopped
- Fluid weeping at the slave or down the bellhousing
- Low or dropping fluid level in the clutch reservoir
Servicing advice: the slave cylinder isn’t a scheduled replacement item, but the fluid is. Fresh DOT 3 (or DOT 4 if specified on the reservoir cap) every 2 years/40,000–60,000 km helps keep seals happy and the pedal nice and firm. If the pedal goes soft or the unit leaks, replacement is straightforward: crack the line, remove the two mounting bolts, swap the cylinder, then bleed the system. Many techs choose to replace the master and slave together on higher‑kilometre cars to avoid a quick return visit, as they tend to age at the same pace.
- Use quality fluid and don’t spill it on paint—brake fluid is nasty on duco.
- Inspect the rubber hose and hard line for corrosion or cracks while you’re there.
- Bleed until the pedal feels firm and clean fluid runs bubble‑free.
- If the fork boot is torn, replace it to keep dust and water out.
- Torque fasteners to the workshop manual spec and double‑check for leaks after a short test drive.
For Kiwi and Aussie conditions—heat, dust, and stop‑start traffic—staying on top of fluid changes and fixing any seepage early will keep the CR‑V’s clutch action light, predictable, and drama‑free.
Does every 2005 Honda CR‑V have a clutch slave cylinder?
No—only the 5‑speed manual models. Automatic versions use a torque converter and don’t need a clutch hydraulic system, so there’s no slave cylinder fitted.
What are the tell‑tale signs the slave cylinder is failing?
A soft or sinking pedal, difficulty selecting first or reverse, visible fluid on the gearbox/bellhousing area, or a clutch reservoir that keeps dropping are common flags a 2005 CR‑V’s slave cylinder needs attention.
Should the clutch master be replaced at the same time?
It’s often a smart move on higher‑kilometre vehicles. The master and slave age together, and replacing both can save time and a second bleed if the other unit fails shortly after.