Parts for your 2004 Honda Elysion-Centre bearing

2004 Honda Elysion centre-bearing — does it have one?

Short answer: it depends on the driveline. The 2004 Honda Elysion was sold in front-wheel drive (RR1/RR3) and four-wheel drive (RR2/RR4) variants. Technical catalogues and workshop literature note that the 4WD models use a two-piece propeller shaft with a centre support bearing, while the FWD models have no propeller shaft and therefore no centre-bearing. References: Honda Electronic Parts Catalogue (JDM) for Elysion RR2/RR4 lists a Propeller Shaft assembly with a Centre Bearing, the RR1/RR3 FWD sections list only front driveshafts with an intermediate (carrier) bearing on the right-hand shaft, not a prop-shaft centre-bearing. This split is also reflected in Honda’s 2004 Elysion Driveline/Axle service manual sections, where propeller shaft inspection and centre-bearing checks are 4WD-only procedures.

Why it’s not used on FWD Elysion: the front-wheel drive layout sends power only to the front wheels via short CV shafts. There’s no long propeller shaft running to a rear differential, so there’s nothing to support mid-span. While the right-hand front axle uses an intermediate shaft bearing for balance and torque steer control, that part isn’t the same as (nor referred to as) a prop-shaft centre-bearing in Honda documentation.

If talking about a 2004 Elysion 4WD (RR2/RR4), here’s what owners should know about the centre-bearing:

The centre-bearing sits midway along the Elysion’s two-piece propeller shaft, cradled in a rubber insulator and bolted to the underbody. Its job is to support the long shaft, keep alignment true between the transfer case and rear diff, and soak up vibration so the cabin stays quiet on Aussie and Kiwi roads. When it’s healthy, there’s next to no play and the rubber is intact, when it’s tired, owners might hear a droning or humming that rises with road speed, feel a shudder on take-off, or notice a clunk as the driveline loads up.

• Inspection: during regular servicing or around 100,000–120,000 kilometres, have a tech check the bearing for free-play, roughness, and perished rubber. Also look at prop shaft universal joints and the mounting bracket hardware.
• Replacement tips: mark the prop shaft flanges before removal to preserve phasing, support the exhaust and heat shields, then drop the shaft. The centre-bearing is pressed onto the shaft, use proper pullers/press tools to avoid damaging the yoke. Refit with the dust seal oriented correctly, align the marks, and torque the fasteners to spec. Replace any single-use self-locking bolts and inspect the transfer and diff seals while you’re under there.
• After-service check: a brief road test should confirm no vibration under load and no new noises on overrun. If there’s a shimmy, recheck shaft phasing and bracket alignment.

There’s no set replacement interval—condition and driving environment rule the roost. City heat, towing, or rough roads can age the rubber faster. Many workshops in AU/NZ will recommend doing the bearing as soon as noise or play is evident rather than waiting, as a failed support can stress the prop shaft and mounts.

Popular questions

Does a 2004 Honda Elysion have a centre-bearing?
It does on 4WD versions (RR2/RR4) because they use a two-piece propeller shaft. FWD versions (RR1/RR3) don’t have a prop shaft, so there’s no centre-bearing. Honda’s EPC and service manual sections confirm the centre-bearing is a 4WD-only item.

What are the signs of a failing centre-bearing on an Elysion?
Common giveaways are a droning or humming that follows vehicle speed, a vibration or shudder on take-off, and sometimes a clunk as drive engages. Underneath, the rubber insulator may be cracked or the bearing may feel rough or loose when the prop shaft is moved by hand.

How much does replacement usually cost in Australia or New Zealand?
Expect roughly 1.5–3.0 hours of labour depending on workshop and condition of fasteners/heat shields. Parts range widely: a standalone centre-bearing can be a few hundred dollars, if the prop shaft needs attention or replacement, costs climb. Ballpark fitted pricing often lands between AUD/NZD $400–$900 for the bearing job, but it’s best to get a quote against the exact RR code and VIN.